Shinshu and the Japan Alps
To discover the heart of Japan, travel to Nagano Prefecture at its geographical centre.
Japan is a path well trodden, evoking a number of preconceptions in outsiders and often getting the Hollywood treatment in films such as Lost in Translation, Memoirs of a Geisha or The Last Samurai. Some Japanese cultural phenomena _ manga, anime, karaoke, cosplay _ have spread around the world. Modern Japanese writers (Haruki Murakami), artists (Yayoi Kusama) and designers (Rei Kawakubo) are among the world’s best known names.
Matsumoto Castle, in the central town of Matsumoto, is one of the more famous and scenic castles of Japan. Surrounded by a moat, it looks different and evokes a different atmosphere in each season and at different times of day. Tourists can enter the inner grounds and climb the stairs to the top level, which has a stunning view of the surrounding area and the Alps in the distance.
And yet the image that most people in Asia or the West have of Japan is still shrouded in mystery, as a land of cherry blossoms and sharply defined seasons, pride and humility, shyness, diligence and stubbornness, with a large appetite for cuteness and technology and a reverence for nature. Whether or not these media depictions are accurate is less important than the fact that our understanding of Japan is incomplete and superficial, that it is often easier to go by stereotypes than to investigate what makes Japan so unique.
The word for heart in Japanese, kokoro, can also mean soul, centre, intelligence and mind. So for a tourist, perhaps the best way to discover the real Japan, the scenery that inspired its artists and poets, the food and simple lifestyle that gives the Japanese the longest life expectancy in the world, is to travel through the heart the country. To discover the mix of natural and urban, provincial and cosmopolitan, traditional and modern in the countryside and prefectural capitals.
And at the geographical centre of the Japanese archipelago lies Nagano Prefecture, a mountainous landlocked province that boasts a rich diversity of natural beauty and cultural and culinary richness. Even when Nagano hosted the Winter Olympics in 1998, the prefecture’s sights, culture and natural beauty remained underpublicised. Locals often refer to it by its historical name of Shinshu, and nationally it is well known for its ski resorts, hot springs and summer hiking trails, as well as its excellently preserved town centres and traditional arts.
One of the more fascinating trails to follow is the thousand-year-old Nakasendo, which was renovated by the Tokugawa shogunate in the 17th century to connect the capital, Edo (now Tokyo), with the former capitals of Nara and Kyoto. Some of the best preserved postal towns along the route are in southern Nagano, with architecture, food and crafts largely conforming to tradition.
In the North are the prefectural capital, with its iconic Buddhist temple, Zenko-ji _ one of the last major pilgrimage sights of Japan _ and a plethora of onsen (hot spring) towns and alpine trails. In the centre of the prefecture is the de facto cultural capital, Matsumoto, with its tiered castle, festivals and parks, as well as Lake Suwa and the breathtaking alpine resort of Kamikochi.
The prefecture is also famous for its food, such as home-made soba with mountain vegetables, Genghis Khan (grilled lamb) and oyaki (dumplings stuffed with vegetables), or for the more adventurous, some dishes you’re unlikely to find elsewhere such as basashi (raw horse meat), hachinoko (bee larvae) or inago (fried grasshoppers).
With a Japan Rail pass and a good guidebook, the prefecture is also surprisingly accessible, easily reached from Tokyo, and less expensive than you might imagine. The locals are friendly and hospitable, eager to be helpful despite any language problems, the nature is stunning and the culture is both traditional and cosmopolitan. There is something for everyone in Shinshu, but most importantly, here is where you’ll find the real Japan.
Daio Wasabi Nojo, located over 15 hectares in Azumino, central Nagano, is Japan’s largest wasabi farm, popular with tourists for its windmills and clear river. The green horseradish is grown in flat, shaded gravel beds irrigated by melted snow from the Alps. The chilly mineral water is ideal for the plant. Akira Kurosawa was so inspired by the scenery here he used the farm as a setting for his 1990 film ‘Dreams’.
The crown jewel of the Northern Alps is Kamikochi. Nestled in a high valley surrounded by the Hida Mountains, the town and numerous alpine trails are well marked and maintained. Private cars are banned and the area is closed for half of the year due to snow, so the valley has a lot of wildlife and undisturbed natural beauty. The spring and summer here are spectacular, and there are several ‘ryokan’ (traditional inns) or ‘minshuku’ (bed and breakfasts) where you can spend the night. The town can be reached in a little over an hour by train and bus from Matsumoto.
Nagiso, one of the former postal towns of the Kiso Valley. In the early years of the Edo period, the shogunate renovated Japan’s thousand-yearold highway system. Five roads became official routes of the shogun and the other ‘daimyo’ (feudal lords), providing a communications network for the shogunate to stabilise and rule the country. One of the five roads was the Nakasendo, which stretched from Edo (modern-day Tokyo), from where the shogun wielded its power, through the central mountain ranges to Kyoto.
Magome, another town along the Nakasendo route. In the Kiso Valley in southern and central Nagano these former postal towns are well preserved, and residents take pride in maintaining their homes in the traditional way. They also serve as convenient bases for hiking, bicycling or walking tours of the surrounding mountains.
Many tourists visit the Nakasendo postal towns, and they help support traditional arts and crafts such as weaving and ‘shiki’ lacquerware. This shop sells items carved from ‘hinoki’ (Japanese cedar), such as ‘geta’ (clogs) and bowls that are both functional and decorative.
An old town along the Nakasendo, built with Japanese cypress and white pine, is even more atmospheric in the late afternoon. The Nakasendo is about 540km long. In the past it would take travellers around 20 days to walk the 67 stages of the road. Nowadays it can be traversed more easily by train.
A view of the Central Alps. The Japan Alps are comprised of three ranges—the Hida Mountains, or Northern Alps; the Kiso Mountains, shown here; and the Akaishi Mountains, or Southern Alps. All three ranges run through Nagano Prefecture.
Lake Suwa, Japan’s 24th largest. In mid-August, the edges of the lake are full of tourists and onlookers as Suwa hosts one of the largest fireworks festivals in Japan. When the lake freezes over in winter, the deeper waters are still warm due to hot springs on the lake bed.
A local Shinto shrine in Matsumoto. Most Japanese incorporate elements of Shinto, Buddhism and other religions in a syncretic fashion without considering themselves particularly pious.
Agata-no-mori Park in downtown Matsumoto. Unlike hectic Tokyo or Osaka, rural cities have room for many sculpted parks and gardens. In Nagano, many of these are made more dramatic by the alpine backdrop.
In early August, downtown Matsumoto City transforms into a giant dancing party called Matsumoto Bon-Bon, with most residents either involved in the procession, looking on or enjoying the myriad snack and beer stalls. Many visitors to Matsumoto Bon-Bon wear traditional summer kimono.
Nezame-notoko is a bed of rocks along the Kiso River. The gorge is in a nationally designated scenic spot, known for its rock formations and the emerald colour of the river, a literal jumpingoff point for cliff diving or mountain trails.
Zenko-ji in Nagano City. Zenkoji is one of the most famous Buddhist temples in Japan, large and austere and, along with the intricately carved gates and monastic buildings, very beautiful. It is one of the main remaining pilgrimage sights in Japan.
Nagano Prefecture is full of hot springs, bubbling through geological fissures. Locals regularly soak in the hot rejuvenating mineral water, said to have numerous health benefits, and so do monkeys!
A view of the Northern Alps (Hida Mountains) from Hakuba. In winter, the town of Hakuba is full of skiers and snowboarders from as far afield as Tokyo, Australia and Europe. In summer, the gondolas serve as shortcuts to alpine vistas and hiking trails.bron:http://www.bangkokpost.com