Pran Buri has everything its more acclaimed neighbour used to boast of all those years ago
Published: 27/05/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
Prachuap Khiri Khan, a coastal province a few hours’ drive south of Bangkok, is blessed with a good and varied selection of tourist spots which reach out to visitors of just about every age if not every taste.
A bird’s eye view of the scenic Ao Prachuap area.
Recently I spent two nights in Pran Buri, one of the province’s eight districts, and concluded that this enchanting destination has much more going for it than the more popular Hua Hin, which sadly has been overrun by boutique hotels and resorts, though on the positive side Hua Hin has of late reinvented itself as a hub for arts and culture enthusiasts. Besides, the Hua Hin Railway Station & Library makes for a cosy hangout, particularly handy for those needing to kill time or waiting to catch the next train out of town.
Rising 245 metres above sea level Khao Chong Krajok boasts a pagoda (obscured by a tree in this photo) believed to house relics of Lord Buddha. You need to be physically fit for the testing climb up the winding 400 steps leading to the summit, and your reward is a sweeping view of Ao Prachuap, Ao Noi and Ao Manao. Khao Chong Krajok, meanwhile, is also home to a population of raucous macaques who are there watching your every step.
Pran Buri is in essence a quiet and laid back area which boasts a number of interesting spots among which is the Pran Buri Forest Park where you can enjoy the lush ambience of a mangrove forest or take a cruise and experience the way of life of fishermen in the district.
At the Pak Nam Pran local market, we came across shops selling dried squid. You can also go for an early morning walk along the pier nearby and observe trawlers unloading their catch at an open-air market nearby.
Low-priced seafood attracts connoisseurs near and far. Pran Buri also boasts some nice restaurants that have been around a long time, the oldest being Udom Phochana, almost 50 years old. Its menu revolves mainly around squid, preserved as well as fresh.
Sam Roi Yot district, a little further south, is famous for its natural beauty. At the beach around Khao Kalok we rented a boat to check out islands such as Koh Nom Sao and Koh Koram. Apart from their scenic beauty, both are home to troops of monkeys at once likeable and naughty.
Some of the most varied and interesting spots turned out to be in downtown Prachuap. I was pleasantly surprised that it had managed to retain its charm and beauty of yesteryear, so don’t expect to find active night life here.
The strip around Ao Prachuap (the bay you see in the main photo) is dotted with restaurants, hotels and guesthouses, with room rates ranging from 500 baht nightly to slightly over 1,000 baht, which provide a nice alternative for friends looking for a night out. However, after 9pm the streets are deserted.
Mornings are best spent touring old communities in the back lanes of Ao Prachuap. The day I was visiting I had the pleasure of meeting a 95-year-old Chinese woman and I really enjoyed the chit-chat with her.
After that I went to the Royal Thai Air Force’s Wing 5 Command in Ao Manao that has a beautiful beach and a war museum. The bay area is a great vacation spot to take family and friends. You can while away the entire day without any interference.
Not to be missed is the City Pillar Shrine, the Coastal Fisheries Research Development Centre and the Thai-Burmese border market at Dan Singkhon which is popular for the wide range of exotic plants on sale there.
With its beautiful beaches, verdant forest and a good selection of accommodations in all price range and decor, seafood restaurants and coffee shops, Prachuap Khiri Khan province has much to offer visitors.
Souvenirs and local handicraft can be bought readily in Hua Hin town, which include decorations made from coconut shells, fabrics printed in traditional patterns, brooms and rugs made of sisal fibre, bamboo tables and chairs, and last but not least traditional sweets as well as preserved food such as canned pineapple which the province is noted for.
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For van transport to Prachuap Khiri Khan, call 089-170-4340, 080-581-4020, 089-171-4844.
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Udom Phochana Restaurant (Pran Buri): 032-631-130, 032-631-054.
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Khlong Wan Cakes: 032-661-173.
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Foresta Boutique Resort & Hotel (Pran Buri): 032-630-678, email: [EMAIL=“info@forestaresort.com”]info@forestaresort.com.
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Prachuap Beach Hotel: 032-601-288, fax 032-603-322.
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Pran Buri Forest Park: 032-414-677, 032-621-608, 081-858-7227.
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Wing 5 Air Force Command: 032-601-838, 081-123-8762, 086-626-1256.
Located in the heart of the Prachuap town is this City Pillar Shrine reminiscent of the Lop Buri style of architecture.
Pran Buri Forest Park offers much in terms of educating visitors about the need to preserve mangrove forests and the lifestyle of fishing communities in the area. It has a nature trail marked by an elevated wooden path. Walking it one can study the mangrove’s ecology and natural resources it holds within its embrace. Along the way, you will find information boards posted with names of trees and plant species found there. On such walks keeping visitors company are dogs, excited and friendly, often leading the way. Visitors can also camp in the park at night.
Visitors can hire boats for a tour of the mangrove and fishing villages. The ride along a canal flanked by verdant forest rewards visitors with unblemished natural beauty and great mountain views. Fed by the Pran Buri River, the canal cuts past some really exotic points, as well as the homes of fishermen, some of whom migrated from Burma. Trawlers—some colourfully done up, some run down—dot the river. In the evening you see their occupants relaxing over meals with family and friends, and others mending their vessels preparing to set sail the next morning.
Island hopping to Koh Nom Sao and Koh Koram was loads of fun as our boatman regaled us with interesting folklore. At our first stop, Koh Koram, we were greeted by a horde of monkeys waiting expectantly for fruit and sweets from visitors. Mind you, not all of them were tame, some even moody, but their antics kept us entertained. The sea around this island is blessed with coral reefs making it a favourite of snorkellers and fishing buffs.
As Ao Manao was the scene of battle between Thai and Japanese troops during World War II. Today there is a museum commemorating Thais who died in the battle. At the time, the museum building served as a military barracks. Among the exhibits is a transistor radio that was the only contact the building’s residents had with outside world, old war planes and replicas of some models, and props of the battle from start to finish next to the statue of an airman holding the national flag, his eyes scanning the sea.
Ao Manao is within the perimeters of the Royal Thai Air Force’s Wing 5 Command but accessible to the public free of charge. The airfield is off-limits but visitors can roam the surrounding area freely. Ao Manao is good for a dip and its sprawling beach ideal for family picnics. It has a cafeteria and tourist accommodation, but to book you need to have the right connections.
A 10-minute boat ride from Koh Koram is Koh Nom Sao that translates as an island shaped like a lady’s breast. Here we saw this macaque that clearly showed its age. Friendly at first, it came and sat at my friend’s feet but after a while when she tried to move away, it turned aggressive. The island is covered with densely growing wild plants, while the sea around it is a ranking dive site full of colourful coral reefs. There is no tourist accommodation on both islands.
The Coastal Fisheries Research Development Centre in ‘tambon’ Klong Wan of Prachuap Khiri Khan is a name not on everyone’s lips but its significance as a leading marine laboratory and breeding facility can not be stated enough. One of the species it is breeding is ‘Tridacna squamosa’ or giant clams, protected under Thailand’s Wild Animal Reservation and Protection Act, which bars its trade in any form. Giant clams are also on the list of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).
Thai and Burmese vendors ply their wares side by side at Dan Singkhon border market, the items ranging from intricate Burmese jewellery to fake brand name products and even whitening cream. The market is noted for exotic plants and orchids brought over from Burma, among them species that are rare and some on the verge of extinction.
Hua Hin Railway Station & Library is a cosy spot to relax and read if you need to kill time. It has internet service and a good selection of children’s books, but no air-conditioning. It charges no entrance fee.
Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com