**An area of Bangkok with many visitors, though few realise its history **
Published: 22/11/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch
Although the vast area north of the Grand Palace, from Sanam Luang to Bang Lamphu, is usually bustling with tourists, few are aware that this area was once a royal palace called Wang Na, or “Front Palace”.
PHOTOS: PEERAWAT JARIYASOMBAT
The term “Wang Na” is also used colloquially to refer to the Prince of the Front Palace, a position created in 1466, during the Ayutthaya period. Normally, Siamese kings reserved this significant position for very close relatives. The position of Wang Na remained until King Rama V replaced it with Crown Prince, in 1885.
The first Wang Na of the Rattanakosin period was Krom Phraratchawang Bavorn Maha Sura Singhanat, the younger brother of Rama I. This Wang Na built a palace that was considered as beautiful as any of the palaces in Ayutthaya.
The area of the Wang Na palace in the Rattanakosin period was huge. Its grounds covered half the area of Sanam Luang, as well as Thammasat University, the National Museum and the College of Dramatic Arts, and the northern part of the palace stretched to Bang Lamphu.
Unfortunately, after the position of Wang Na was abolished in 1885, the palace was neglected, and parts of it - including the walls and most of the forts - were torn down in 1897, making way for Sanam Luang and other state buildings. Fortunately, there are still many beautiful buildings that echo the glory days of Wang Na.
The Bangkok National Museum is actually at the heart of Wang Na. This area comprises 11 royal mansions and halls that were built and decorated by the best craftsmen of the period.
A place you should not miss is the Buddhaisawan Chapel. This houses one of the best collections of early Rattanakosin murals, including illustrations of the Jataka and the Ramayana.
The Tamnak Daeng, or “Red House”, in the museum compound is also an impressive piece of architecture. This traditional teak house was built for the elder sister of Rama I.
The house is decorated with carvings, particularly in the bedroom, which also has a gilded bed, dressing table and clothes-horse, and vividly evokes the lifestyle of a member of the royal family at the time.
To the south of the museum is Wat Maha That Yuwarat Rangsarit, which was also part of the Wang Na compound. It offers a tranquil oasis from the busy traffic, hordes of tourists and the many students from Thammasart University.
Walking through the carpark to the inner compound you will be amazed that its vihara and ubosot are such a peaceful haven. The architecture and craftsmanship evident at this temple are recognised as one of the best examples of their type in Bangkok. Not many people realise that between the ubosot and vihara, there is a small pavilion housing a very precious gold pagoda containing a Buddha relic.
North of the National Museum there is another temple that was once in the Wang Na compound. Wat Bavornsthan Suthavas is now in the grounds of the College of Dramatic Arts, near the Phra Pin Klao Bridge.
This temple was built by the Wang Na of Rama III, and is surrounded by huge plumeria trees. The temple is an elegant design, and its door and window frames are decorated with stucco and porcelain. It is a pity that the temple is not open to the public, but at least visitors can look around the outside of the building.
As the Wang Na compound reaches Bang Lamphu, which is now a haven for backpackers, one finds Wat Chana Songkram, opposite Khao San Road.
It is a royal temple that was renovated by the Wang Na of King Rama I to mark his victory over the Burmese in three wars. As the Mon army contributed greatly to winning these wars, he designated this temple for Mon monks.
As a result, Buddhists always pay homage to the principal Buddha image here, praying to overcome obstacles.
The gables of the ubosot of this temple feature a statue of the god Narai riding Garuda, a symbol of the Siamese kings.
After a long walk around the Wang Na compound, you can take a break at the Phra Sumera Fort, one of 14 forts that once surrounded the Grand Palace and Wang Na.
Today this is one of only two surviving forts, and it now has a park and lawn next to it that allows visitors to enjoy lovely views of the Chao Phraya River.
HOW TO GET THERE
Bangkok National Museum is open from Wednesday to Sunday, between9amand 4pm. Admission is 200 baht per person, and photography is not allowed. The ubosot and pavillion of the Buddha’s relic in Wat Mahathat opens on Sundays and Buddhist days.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *