Lasting legacy
**With its wealth of knowledge Wat Pho, or the Temple of the Reclining Buddha, continues to nourish the senses **
Published: 19/11/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
The heart of Bangkok is Rattanakosin Island, an old precinct where the seeds of the capital were first sown in 1782 after King Rama I, or Phra Buddha Yot Fa Chulalok the Great, moved his palace from Thon Buri on the western bank of the Chao Phraya River to the opposite side.
The relocation triggered a wave of new constructions as well as restoration of many architectural landmarks including palaces, forts and temples.
Among the projects undertaken at the time was the expansion of Wat Phodharam, an Ayutthaya-era monastery next to the Grand Palace, to elevate its status and enlarge the temple such that its dimensions were compatible with his new residence. Beginning in 1788, the expansion and restoration took over seven years to complete, after which the temple was renamed Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimonmangklavas, before being changed into Wat Phra Chetuphon Vimonmangklaram during the reign of King Rama IV.
Nonetheless locals, out of habit, have always referred to the temple by its original name, Wat Pho.
Although the iconic structure is a legacy of the reign of King Rama I, succeeding Chakri monarchs have underscored its importance by committing to the upkeep and maintenance of this royal temple.
Another major restoration took place during the reign of King Rama III, who ordered both its vihans _ to the south and west _ expanded. The work, lasting 16 years and 7 months, extended to the hall that houses the world-famous statue of the Reclining Buddha, Missakawan Garden, scripture as well as sermon halls.
With the wealth of knowledge at its disposal, be it history, literature or traditional medicine, Wat Pho could easily pass as the kingdom’s first open-university.
Measuring 3x5 metres, the feet of the Buddha image inlaid with mother-of-pearl depict the Universe surrounded by 108 auspicious symbols. The pattern is a harmonious blend of Thai, Indian and Chinese religious beliefs.
The temple grounds of Wat Pho are adorned with multi-tiered stone pagodas built in traditional Chinese style called ‘tah’.
Apart from endless ancient heritage and religious artefacts that fill up nearly every corner of the temple, Wat Pho is renowned for its colossal statue of the Reclining Buddha or Phra Buddhasaiyas enshrined inside the vihan. Created in the reign of King Rama III, the 46x15-metre gilded statue stands out against the backdrop of mural paintings that adorn the walls.
In the ubosoth is enshrined Phra Buddha Theva Patimakorn, the temple’s principal Buddha image in a restful posture of meditation. The statue sits atop an exquisitely embellished three-tiered pedestal which features 10 effigies of Lord Buddha’s disciples. Flanking Lord Buddha in the middle tier are his two chief disciples, Sariputta and Moggallana, while eight other images of Buddhist saints decorate the base. Remains of King Rama I are also kept inside this pedestal.
Marble inscriptions found inside satellite pavilions detail ancient medical wisdom, according to Veshachetuphon. Anatomy charts on the wall detail infections and their cure, which in some cases involved employing leeches to rid the body of toxin.
Phra Rabieng is a double gallery surrounding the ubosoth. Both inner and outer sections showcase hundreds of Buddha images sent to the temple for restoration during the reign of King Rama I. The facial lineaments of these images vary; it’s easily noticeable there is no exact similitude in these unique Buddha statues as they all came from different venues.
Constructed in the reign of King Rama I, these single-base chedis allude to groups of five pagodas surrounding four corners of the ordination hall. Each group consists of one large pagoda circled by four smaller ones, all erected on the same base. Each square-shaped chedi boasts 12 indented corners, except the biggest structure in the middle which has more rims, 20.
Rambling around the ordination hall one can witness Phra Chedi Rai, rows of as many as 71 small pagodas in an architectural style similar to the singlebase chedi. These religious structures date to the reign of King Rama III.
The sculptures on Khao Mor, or rock gardens, demonstrate various stretching poses adapted from yoga positions practised by Indian hermits. This particular form of therapeutic exercise was used to cure royal courtiers of muscle ache and pain. Out of the original 80 statues, each showing a different pose, only 24 still exist.
Phra Maha Chedi Si Ratchakarn is one of the monastery’s most notable highlights. The historic landmark is comprised of four 42-metre-tall pagodas which, despite their gigantic size, dazzle with intricately detailed patterns of decorative glazed tiles. Different shades of chedis mark the four monarchs of the early Rattanakosin period. The green pagoda named Phra Maha Chedi Sri Sanphetchadayarn represents King Rama I, whereas Phra Maha Chedi Dilok Dharmakharoknithan, the one with off-white background symbolising King Rama II, was built by his son who also constructed Phra Maha Chedi Muneebat Borikhan, in orange-yellow colour, during his reign. The shape of the dark blue edifice representing the reign of King Rama IV offers a distinctive look, unlike other pagodas since it was patterned after Phra Chedi Sri Suriyothai in Ayutthaya.
Apart from Wat Pho there are other interesting stops in this historical part of town. A stone’s throw from the temple is the old Commerce Ministry building that today is home to Museum Siam.
The centuries-old Tha Tien market may not be on every tourist’s itinerary. But if you venture there you will come across the widest array of salted and dried food imaginable. The venue is a great example of early markets in the Rattanakosin period when fresh food was sold amidst rows of shophouses. Not much has changed in the intervening years.
Open round the clock Pak Klong Talat, by the banks of the Chao Phraya, is Thailand’s biggest flower market. Every day, retailers flock there at pre-dawn to buy flowers they later distribute to all parts of the city.
The exhibits on display centre around a theme designed to enable viewers to trace the evolution of Thai society. Divided into 17 zones, the museum provides a comprehensive and profound insight into the elements that helped forge the Thai identity, as we know it today. Important events throughout history starting from the Suvarnabhumi period to modern Thailand are narrated via innovative story-telling techniques, along with selfoperated interactive information consoles.
Another charismatic feature of Wat Pho are Chinese stone sculptures scattered around the compound. In addition to the traditional Chinese figures you see at most temples in Thailand, there are four that appear distinctly Western. It is believed they depict Italian explorer Marco Polo, the first European to travel to China. This statue, armed with a club, is one of the four which reflects the attitude of Chinese people towards Western colonialism.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *
