A stroll through Bangkok’s old quarter is a welcome change of pace
Published: 15/10/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
Life in the City of Angels will never be fun if you sit day in day out behind the steering wheel.
Loha Prasat at Wat Ratchanaddaram Woravihan
Despite rapid modernisation and development of business and entertainment industry, 227 years of Bangkok’s history hasn’t diminished in significance.
Why not deviate from your usual course and, instead of getting trapped in traffic, take time to explore on foot Bangkok’s old quarters which are the pride of the city and in some ways still its pulse.
One recommended area is the Phan Fa junction where Lan Luang Road intersects Ratchadamnoen Avenue. There you’ll find several national landmarks that reveal the true charm of the Rattanakosin era.
Start your tour with a look at Thai artworks at the Queen Sirikit Gallery, followed by a biographical account of King Rama VII at King Prajadhipok Museum located on the opposite side of the road.
Continue over the Mahat Thai Uthit Bridge that leads to the lush compound of Wat Saket Ratchaworamahavihan before taking a U-turn to Maha Chai Road leading to Pratu Phee. Quaint statues of female monks lie in wait to amaze visitors at Wat Thepthidaram Woravihan before they reach the world’s only intact Loha Prasat at Wat Ratchanaddaram Woravihan.
After a stroll along this cultural path, savouring hot plates of local del_cacies amid the historic setting of Pratu Phee is, without a doubt, the perfect punctuation to your day-long venture.
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King Prajadhipok Museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday between 9am to 4pm. For more details, contact 02-280-3413/4 or visit www.kingprajadhipokmuseum.org.
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The Queen Sirikit Gallery is open from 10am to 7pm everyday, except Wednesday. For further information, call 02-281-5360/1 or visit www.queengallery.org.
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The Golden Mount is open to visitors everyday from 7:30am to 5:30pm, except on important Buddhist religious days. Every November, a dazzling seven-day temple fair is held to celebrate Loy Krathong Festival at Wat Saket.
LEFT AND ABOVE Contrary to the patriarchal nature of most Buddhist societies, feminine presence asserts itself at Wat Thepthidaram, as evident from the interior decoration of the vihan. These include paintings of female gods on door entrance, along with statues of 52 female monks in various postures that presently exist only in legend.
Wat Thepthidaram Woravihan was built by King Rama III during 1836-39 in honour of his daughter, Princess Apsorn Sudathep, who also made a personal contribution to the construction of the temple. Known for his strong affection towards China, the influence of Chinese art is reflected in the architectural design and decoration of this royal monastery. The gables of the ordination hall do not feature a finial or tooth-like ridge on their sloping edges, typical of traditional Buddhist temples, instead, they are adorned with glazed tiles of various Chinese motifs.
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The statues that occupy several corners of the temple grounds are solid evidence of close commercial ties between the monarch and Chinese merchants during the Third Reign which was regarded as the golden age of trade between Siam and China. These stone figures were initially brought to Siam as ballast or balancing weights on numerous Chinese junks that sailed to this country.
Luang Por Khao, the graceful Buddha image carved from pure white stone, is enshrined within an ornate Busabok throne inside the ordination hall of Wat Thepthidaram.
Wat Ratchanaddaram Woravihan was built on the order of King Rama III in 1846 for his niece, Princess Somanas Watthanavadi, who later became Queen Somanas Watthanavadi of King Rama IV. The royal compound offers an unusual sight when seen alongside its Rattanakosin companions. This is largely down to the temple’s most prominent attraction, Loha Prasat, constructed in the reign of King Rama III. Its awe-inspiring design was patterned after the description featured in Mahawong scripture of Sri Lanka. Boasting 37 metal spires representing the 37 virtues to enlightenment, the tetrahedron or four-sided pavilion on top of the structure houses holy relics of Lord Buddha. The importance of this Loha Prasat lies in that it is the first and only one of its kind in Thailand, and only one of three to have ever existed. However, with the other two in ruins, the edifice at Wat Ratchanaddaram is the lone Loha Prasat left unscathed in the world.
Another illustrious element that makes this place of worship more quaint and unique than others are the mural paintings above window panels, which distinctively depict the angels representing 27 different star signs based on Thai astrology.
From the ground a spiral stairway that weaves its way around the mount leads to the gleaming pagoda on the rooftop terrace from which you can enjoy a panoramic view of the capital.
Rising to over 60 metres above all other landmarks in the area, the claim that Golden Mount of Wat Saket Ratchaworamahavihan was Thailand’s first high-rise is certainly not an overstatement. Originally, King Rama III wished to erect a new pagoda of huge proportions similar to Phu Khao Thong in Ayutthaya. This structure, however, subsided during the early stages of construction due to soil erosion. The mud-and-brick hillock was left unattended until King Rama IV, shortly after his accession to the throne, decided to resume construction of the pagoda. Its former brick base was altered to the shape of a mountain and a large chedi was added onto the top of the hill. Work on the pagoda continued throughout his reign and it was only completed after his son, King Rama V, ascended the throne.
King Prajadhipok Museum is an enlightening journey into the life of the seventh Chakri monarch whose reign marked a turning point in the country’s history when almost 700 years of absolute monarchy came to an end following the military coup of 1932. Exhibits on view depict major episodes of King Prajadhipok’s life, starting from his youth, education, ordination, marriage, coronation, government service and royal activities. Also available are old journals, photographs, research documents, multi-media presentation plus the king’s personal belongings.
This runner-up contemporary painting on the second floor was created by Karuna Panumes, one of last year’s Bua Luang award-winning artists. The shadows on her face reflect the motif of Nang Talung puppets, the southern folk art that characterises the artist’s cultural upbringing.
Born out of the Queen’s initiative to nurture artistic heritage of Thailand, all five storeys of the Queen Sirikit Gallery house temporary exhibitions of works by celebrated maestros as well as up-and-coming artists. From now until this November 24, the first and second floors of the building would play host to the 31st Bua Luang Painting Exhibition, where on show will be 58 outstanding artworks, including nine award-winning paintings, selected from 177 pieces of work featuring at the Bangkok Bank Foundation’s annual painting contest. A collection on the ground floor showcases the style and techniques of traditional Thai paintings. This creation, placing third in the Traditional category, is entitled, the ‘Power of Time’, depicting civilisation’s eternal resistance to its inevitable demise and attempts to outlast Father Time.
The winner in Contemporary category, Chaiyarat Mongkolnat, transports visitors to the bucolic ambience of Bangkok’s Bang Bamru sub-district with his no-holds-barred artwork. The inclusion of rustic features such as the coarsely-sculpted plaster Buddha images and rugged palm-leaf ceremonial fans, arises out of the painter’s sub-conscious vision which is in striking contrast with modern society’s popular concept of beauty.
This pair of brown Oxford shoes worn by King Rama VII is part of a rare personal collection displayed at the museum.
This faded old newspaper clipping dated June 25, 1932, proclaims Thailand’s transition from absolute to constitutional monarchy after Khana Ratsadon, a group of Westleaning military officers and civilians had seized power in a coup d’etat the previous day.
Ban Bat community adjacent to Wat Saket is the only remaining manufacturer of handmade steel alms bowls today. In the photo, Hiran Suasriserm, a sixth-generation craftsman is showing an 88-year-old monk alms bowl made by his grandfather.
Lying between Thepthidaram and Saket temples, Pratu Phee or literally the Ghost Gate, played a key role in the life of people during the early Rattanakosin period. In the old days, cremation within the city wall was reserved only for the monarch, his queens and highranking royal members. Funerals for noblemen or civilians were forbidden in the Phra Nakhon city and the so-called Ghost Gate served as the main exit through which dead bodies were carried out of its wall for cremation which usually took place at Wat Saket. Pratu Phee, however, has totally shed its former eerie image and become one of the area’s most bustling and popular dining spots famous for several varieties of mouth-watering delicacies. Among them are two famous ‘phad Thai’ shops —Thipsamai and Lung Pha—both of which still use charcoal stoves for cooking.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *