Tryst with temples

**A shot in the arm for operators of Chao Phraya boat cruises **

Published: 15/10/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons

With temples by the Chao Phraya River, as it cuts through Bangkok, continuing to fascinate Thais and tourists alike, the city administration has introduced day-long boat tours to shrines regarded as favourites of the late Princess Galyani Vadhana.

The main entrance from the pier to the viharn of Wat Ratcha Orot.

Our tour began at Sathon pier next to Taksin Skytrain station, where we boarded a long-tailed boat to Khlong Dao Khanong, a canal in the Thon Buri area, to visit two temples built by King Rama III and, after that, two others in Nonthaburi Province.

“Travelling by boat, the Princess always carried with her a bottle of drinking water and Halls candies, and her favourite flavours were menthol and lemon with honey,” said Napatyos Emasit, of the Bangkok Metropolitan Administration’s (BMA) tourism division, and then handed out the same to each of us.

Her purpose on these visits wasn’t just to make merit, explained Napatyos who was our guide for the day, but also to check on repair and renovation in progress at some of the temples.

Wat Ratcha Orasaram or Wat Ratcha Orot in Soi Ekachai 4 of Chomthong district was our first stop. King Rama III rebuilt the temple before he ascended the throne. It is the first temple to reflect King Rama III’s style of architecture that’s a harmonious blend of Thai and Chinese arts," Napatyos declared.

Phra Chai is the principal Buddha statute at Wat Chalerm Phrakiat.

Wat Racha Orot is different from other temples of its time , as evident from its ubosot and viharn.

Normally, temple halls have swooping multi-tiered rooflines and distinctive ornamental decorations such as chor fa or gabled apex - decorative designs of superstructure attached on the top of the roof, and bai raka - ornamental decorations attached to the lower part of the roof.

But Wat Ratcha Orot has a simple look, with its roof decorated with colourful tiles and ceramics from China. Decorations on the pediment were also colourful ceramic. The king liked this simple type of architecture because it was easier when it came to maintenance.

From there we headed to Wat Nang Nong Voraviharn, originally built during the Ayutthaya period but rebuilt by the monarch and dedicated to his mother, Chao Chom Manda Riem, who was in residence in the same area.

Feeding fish is a popular activity when visiting temples.

“The ubosot houses one of the most beautiful sitting Buddha statutes from the Rattanakosin period,” said our guide. Carved from bronze, it has the monarch dressed in royal regalia. The statue is a harmonious mix of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya art.

The ubosot also showcases various traditional arts including the exterior door panels beautifully inlaid with engraved pearl.

The murals are painted with gilded lacquer. There is a large mural between the doors showing the Chinese gods of blessing, prosperity and longevity or Hok Lok Siew (Fuk Luk Sau in Mandarin). There is a piece of rare art on the lower wall between the windows of this ubosot called kam ma lor.

“Kam ma lor is a Chinese style of painting that required great skill. Artists painted the pictures without the help of a draft by applying gold powder on wood coated with lacquer. You couldn’t erase if there’s a mistake. No room for error,” said Napatyos. Although the colour is fading, the inscription of the Chinese epic Three Kingdoms is still legible.

One of Wat Nang Nong’s beautiful doors.

It was noon when we exited Wat Nang Nong and headed for Nonthaburi.

Our first stop there was Wat Chalerm Phrakiat, built by King Rama III in honour of his grandparents who were in residence there, but it wasn’t completed until the reign of his successor, King Rama IV.

Located on the other side of Nonthaburi’s old town hall, about a kilometre to its north, Wat Chalerm Phrakiat is built on a ground where once stood a fortress, Pom Tabtim, whose walls are still standing. Entrance to the viharn is guarded by life-size stone statutes of 18 Chinese saints.

Entering the viharn, you’ll fine the principal Buddha image which, unlike most others, holds a talapat (a talipot fan) in front of his face.

Napatyos explained the statue in this posture was called Phra Chai, the harbinger of victory.

He related to us that the late Princess once asked him about the statue, to which he replied that it’s widely believed at the time that with Phra Chai on your side, victory in war would be assured for he would wield his talapat and blow the enemy away.

Apart from the statue which is carved from pure copper, other attractions include old Thai style wooden houses that today serve as the residential quarters of monks.

The tour’s last stop was Koh Kret, a spit of land in the middle of the Chao Phraya, to visit Wat Poramai Yikawat or Wat Pak Aow, a Mon temple renovated during the reign of King Rama V.

The temple’s museum displays historical artefacts such as scriptures inscribed on ivory in Raman language, flowers crafted on white Italian marble, earthenware and pottery for which Koh Kret is famous.

*‘*Kam ma lor’ murals at Wat Nang Nong.

*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *