While not as well known for its links to the monarchy as Hua Hin, Phetchaburi boasts a trio of historic palaces, all well worth a visit
Story and photos by PATSINEE KRANLERT
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Unlike the other two royal residences which are located in
Phetchaburi town, the recently restored Mrigadayavan
Palace is in Cha-am district.
The presence of no less than three royal palaces in Phetchaburi is an enduring link binding this small yet culture-rich town to our monarchy. For more than half a century this province not far southwest of the capital was the favourite seaside retreat of Chakri kings and their families.
It all started in the reign of King Mongkut, the fourth ruler of the current royal dynasty. Known for his strong interest in science and Western culture, Rama IV was the first of our monarchs to build a European-style summer residence.
His Phra Nakhon Khiri Palace, which overlooks the town atop the 95m-high hill of Khao Samana, was completed circa 1862.
Known locally as Khao Wang, it consists of several structures on three peaks, connected by paths, and was the first palace to be erected outside Bangkok during the Rattanakosin era. On the westernmost rise are the original residential and court buildings constructed mainly in the European neo-classical style but featuring some Chinese architectural touches, too. The architect was Thuam Bunnag (Chaophraya Phanuwong), head of the powerful Phra Khlang (Treasure and Foreign Affairs) ministry.
King Mongkut, who had a penchant for astronomy, commissioned the construction of a separate observatory here called Ho Chatchawan Wiang Chai. This squat, cylindrical structure topped by a glass dome offers wonderful views of the town below.
Phra Thinang Phetphum Phairot, the largest building in the complex, was used by the king as an audience chamber. It was later renovated and partially reconstructed by his son, King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), to accommodate state guests. Many of the other rooms in this residence-turned-museum contain priceless collections of sculpture, antique ceramics, ornate furniture and personal utensils once used by King Rama IV and V.
Located on the hilltop, Khao Wang is rather exposed to the elements, especially during the annual monsoon. King Rama V, therefore, decided to build a second palace on the western bank of the Phetchaburi River specifically as a rainy-season retreat. Work on this began in 1910 under the supervision of German architect Karl Dohring.
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A lounge area at Mrigadayavan Palace. King Rama IV’s observatory at Khao Wang.
The monarch passed away that very year, however, and the palace wasn’t completed until 1916 during the reign of King Vajiravudh (Rama VI) who named it Phra Ram Ratchaniwet. Generally known today as Wang Ban Puen, the palace’s architecture is jugendstil, a German art nouveau style.
The main building, Phra Thinang Sornphet Prasart, comprises rectangular halls surrounding a courtyard which was originally a badminton court - the first in the country - and is now a small garden with a fountain. The mansard roof is made from imported brown tiles and features two large domes.
The interior has exquisitely carved doors and window frames and in the eastern wing there is a geometrically designed, circular hall with glazed, dark-green columns and two baroque spiral staircases which wind up to meet each other in the shape of a club. A sculpture of Poseidon, the Greek god of the sea, adorns the main dining room whose design is an attractive blend of German and French art nouveau styles. In the king’s bedchamber are statues of Rama V and Rama VI.
In 1923, towards the end of his reign, the latter also commissioned a seaside retreat for himself on Bang Kra Beach in Cha-am called Mrigadayavan. It was initially designed by King Vajiravudh himself, in a style variously described as Thai-Victorian or Victorianised Thai, but Italian architect Ercole Manfredi was later appointed to add the finishing touches. Comprising three groups of golden teak pavilions, 16 in all, connected by verandahs, the entire palace is raised on a total of 1,080 concrete columns to keep out ants. High ceilings and fretwork in all the walls ensured good ventilation and made the most of sea breezes.
The place is often referred to as “the palace of love and hope” because when Rama VI first visited in 1924 he was accompanied by his consort at the time, who was pregnant. His hopes of obtaining an heir to the throne were dashed, however, when Phra Nang Chao Intharasak Sachi later had a miscarriage.
King Vajiravudh returned to Mrigadayavan again on April 12 the following year. It was as if he had come to say farewell to his favourite seaside retreat, for he died in Bangkok just seven months after that.
The palace, which fell into disrepair after his death, was recently restored to its former glory and is now open to the public.
*Bron: Bangkok Post (Horizons) / www.bangkokpost.com *