Thai motorists discover the joy of driving from Nan to Luang Prabang in Laos and back
Published: 26/11/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
For self-drive motorists craving adventure, there is plenty on tap on the road to Laos, Thailand’s land-locked neighbour, that is still gem of a country, beautiful, still very much aloof, well preserved and begging to be explored.
While in the past you needed a ferry to cross over to Laos, better roads, simpler customs and immigration procedures both sides of the border now enable travellers to get off the beaten track and scour the Lao countryside at will, at their own pace.
The border checkpoint at Huay Kon in Thailand’s Nan Province provides a perfect gateway through which to drive to Laos, and although road conditions from the Nam Ngern checkpoint on Lao side in Hongsa of Sayabouri Province are far from ideal, the ancient capital of Luang Prabang is just 160 kilometres from there, the shortest distance from the Thai border by car.
Such road conditions test the wits and driving skills of motorists during the ride from Nan to Luang Prabang, Laos.
Deeper inland is Highway 13, in excellent condition, which allows you to travel without fuss and drive up a plateau to the Plain of Jars in Xiangkhoang, or head south and relax in the easy ambience of Vang Viang, before crossing the bridge at Nong Khai back into Thailand safe and sound.
The Laotian countryside is full of smiling people while the roads with much less traffic compared to Thailand are extremely convenient, which has not escaped the attention of Thai motorists.
And even when the odd road turns dusty and bumpy it is still a relief considering Bangkok’s notorious traffic jam, because you still get to enjoy the calm and rustic ambience of the Laotian countryside.
For adventure motorist, Laos is a well kept gems tempting their exploration desire. Better road condition, easier immigration and customs procedures of both Thailand and Laos today allow tourist from Thailand to explore Laos off the beaten tracks.
Huay Kon check point of Nan province is another permanent checkpoint which allows you to drive into Laos. Although the road condition from Hongsa of Laos is not quite good, Luang Prabang is only 160 kilometres away, the nearest way to get to Luang Prabang by car from Thailand.
Good road condition of Highway 13 allows you to travel to climb up the plateau to stand on the Plain of Jars in Xiangkhoang, go down south the relax in easy atmosphere in Vangviang, and cross the bridge back to Thailand at Nongkhai province safe and sound.
Countryside, smiley people, and easy road with mush less traffic than in Thailand , easily impress motorist motorist from Thailand.
Try out bumping the dusty road in Lao, you will love its calm road and hate Bangkok’s traffic jam.
All cars need immigration clearance, which can be obtained at provincial transport offices in both countries. The road from the Nam Ngeun checkpoint to Chomphet is in poor condition. Only four-wheel drives are recommended on this route.
The road from Nam Ngern checkpoint on Lao side to Luang Prabang is quite challenging. In the dry season it is covered in layers of fine red dust that passing vehicles kick up reducing visibility. But a far greater challenge are the streams, nine of them, every vehicle needs to manoeuvre past during the 160-kilometre ride from this border checkpoint in Hongsa of Sayabouri Province to get to Luang Prabang
From Hongsa it’s a dusty ride to Chomphet, a small town on the banks of the Mekong River, across which sits Luang Prabang. In the absence of bridges, the only way to cross the river is by this floating contraption of two boats supporting a common platform, good enough to ferry three vehicles at a time.
Wat Xhiang Thong royal temple is a famous landmark of Luang Prabang. At the back of its ubosoth is a pink chapel dedicated to Phra Man, a revered Buddha statue which, according to locals, has rain-making powers. Legend has it that every time the statue is carried out of the chapel, it rains. Every year on New Year’s eve people flock to the temple to perform bathing rites for the statue. Photo-taking inside the chapel is not allowed.
From a quiet, tranquil little town Luang Prabang in recent years has grown into a bustling destination that pulls in tourists from every corner of the world. The area downtown boasts a vibrant night market, a good place to go hunting for souvenirs and handicrafts.
If you’re visiting Phonsavan late October to early November, you will know it is harvest time. Rice harvested from the fields is arranged in huge piles and covered by layers of straw as a safeguard against dew and birds. It’s a time of year when the farmers seem most happy, full of fun and laughter.
Farmers returning home in a tractorturned- commuting vehicle at the end of a long day in the field harvesting rice. Devoid of any roof for cover from sun or rain and seat belts for safety, they still seem to enjoy the ride.
On the outskirts of Phonsavan are several archeological sites such as the Plain of Jars. Thousands of stone jars dating back 4,000 years litter the landscape. Legend says they’re jars of liquor meant for ancient warriors, but archaeologists contend they may be stone coffins.
Built in 1322 Phra That Foon is evidence that this town in Xiangkhoang was once home of the Puon people. The stupa you see is in very poor condition. It’s dug up by raiders looking for precious items. Dogged by wars, the people of Puon were forced to relocate to Sukhothai in Thailand where their descendants today are reputed for producing beautiful hand-woven textiles.
During the Vietnam War the Plain of Jars was a battlefield. Even today it is littered with unexploded bombs from that time. Tourists should exercise caution and heed warning signs urging them to restrict their movement to ‘cleared areas’ only.
Situated in the embrace of towering limestone mountains, Vang Viang is a tourist haven noted for its modestly priced accommodations and meals, scenic mountain views and riverside parties.
Patuxai or the Victory Gate is one of the most recognisable landmarks in Vientiane. Fashioned after the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, Patuxai commemorates fallen heroes who fought for independence from France. It was built in 1969 with cement purchased from the US that was supposed to be used for the construction of a new airport.
Phahom is a small village near Vang Viang on Highway 13 famous for crabs and serows. You can buy live crabs sold at 80baht/kg, while the head of a serow—oil extracted from its head is a cure for bone fractures or dislocation—costs 2,000 baht.
An activity on the lighter side in Vang Viang is a cruise on the Nam Song, a shallow stream running through the town. Armed with the inner tubes of truck tyres, tourists first head upstream and then swim back leisurely with the current. Just waistdeep, the stream holds no fear.
From Luang Prabang the drive along Highway 13 to Phoukhoun is pleasant and comfortable because the road, that cuts through deep valleys and across a beautiful landscape of towering limestone mountains, is in excellent condition.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *