Pattaya

Turning a Corner

**Determined to shed its reputation as a red light city, Pattaya rebrands itself as a culture and sports destination **

Published: 12/11/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons

From a small fishing village on the Gulf of Thailand, Pattaya initially grew up as a peaceful rest and recreation beach town half a century ago, before becoming a bustling city and gaining notoriety for its night time entertainment. But things are changing.

From the lookout point atop Khao Thap Phraya you can enjoy a panoramic view of Pattaya and its bay.

“We’ve tried to tone down that image [red light city],” says Itthiphol Kunplome, its mayor.

Unlike middle to upper class tourists heading to Hua Hin, Samui or Phuket who seek serenity of nature, most going to Pattaya are either middle class or lower in search of entertainment and vibrant night life, a result of its initial boom as an R&R destination for the American military during the Vietnam War.

Although there had always been places like Nong Nooch Garden and Resort, Pattaya Park, Mini Siam, Sri Racha Tiger Zoo, Khao Khiew Open Zoo and The Sanctuary of Truth (Prasat Satchatham), such non-red light attractions never really stood out on the tourism map.

Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort is the latest upscale property to open in Pattaya. Seen here are Tourism and Sports Minister Chumpol Silpa-archa (third from right), Suthikiati Chirathivat of Centel (fourth from right), Pattaya Mayor Itthiphol Kunplome (sixth from right) and other dignitaries present at the opening recently.

The mayor admits Pattaya is better known as the city of five “S”, standing for sea, sand, sun, service and, of course, sex. But that must change.
Red-light attractions like beer and a go-go bars, he asserts, will soon be confined to the city’s central and southern areas.

Building Pattaya a new reference, as a city of modernisation, is going to be a big challenge. Apart from a plan to improve the public transportation system, the mayor has embarked on a plan to substitute the stereotype five “S” with “E”, for entertainment and environment, and the MICE market.

For the past 18 months of Ittiphol’s administration, Pattaya has been presented in a more cultural and sporting light. Any new business or promotions related to culture and sports are likely to be included in the city’s tourist calendar.

Another significant change that has taken place in the resort city concerns its environment, says Suthikiati Chirathivat, Chairman of the Executive Board of Central Plaza Hotel (Public) Co, Ltd which owns the brand new Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort in north Pattaya.

“In the past, nobody cared. Waste water was drained directly into the sea; traffic was bad, trash and thugs were virtually everywhere,” he says.
“But today Pattaya is so much different, things have improved and people are more concerned about the environment. For that we must give credit to the city administration.”

The private sector also has an important role to play in giving Pattaya a new charactor. “The most important thing is we must take good care of the visitors and not take advantage of them,” Suthikiati points out.

The ‘Lost World’ at Centara Grand Mirage, the Kingdom’s first themed resort.

“Pattaya used to be a mediocre city where nothing really stood out,” says Paolo Randone of Dusit D2 Baraquda Pattaya, who until five years ago wouldn’t even think of bringing his family to the beach resort because all the people spoke about were its Walking Street, beer bars and night clubs.
However, with the arrival of Dusit D2 Baraquda in the middle of last year and a few others since, has come a wind of change. The D2’s unique concept and design is a major departure from the past when most hotel buildings were dull rectangular blocks.

From a city notorious for night life, Pattaya is due a major rebranding while foreign investors - helped by the Motorway that’s shortened travel time between Bangkok and Pattaya and the opening of Suvarnabhumi Airport - are returning and investing in upscale projects, as are tourists on day-long commute to Pattaya from Bangkok or Suvarnabhumi.

The arrival of these investors is accompanied by the mushrooming of lifestyle shopping complexes and international hotel chains. The Avenue features multiplex cinema while CentralFestival Beach proclaims itself as Asia’s largest beachfront shopping complex.

Suthikiati’s Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort on Wong Ammat Beach is unique for its “Lost World” theme park, the first in Thailand, and with Sheraton, next to the Royal Cliff Beach Resort, and Hilton joining the fray, Pattaya is going through a highly constructive phase. Meanwhile,outique hotels are springing up outside Pattaya along the road leading to Sattahip.

This floating market is one of Pattaya’s new attractions.

One entrepreneur, Manus Meepong, feeling the city didn’t have enough daytime cultural activity, turned a swamp into the Pattaya Floating Market last year, one of the very few non-red light attractions launched there recently. Most foreigners and Thais alike would love to see the cultural side of a destination they’re visiting, no matter if it is natural or reproduced, argues Manus. In the same vein Jo Louis Puppet Theatre opened recently in South Pattaya.

And that’s not all: the list includes Thai Polo & Equestrian Club, Siam Polo Park, and Polo Escape that cater exclusively to members, and add to that something not long ago unthinkable, Silver Lake Vineyard near Khao Chi Chan.

The rapid pace of change the past few years also caught the attention of Ratima Tayaporn, 30, a local entrepreneur, who says in the past there was little she could look forward to in Pattaya, but now her hometown has a more diversified outlook boasting international hotel brands, lifestyle and modern architecture.

“Now we’ve everything just like in Bangkok,” says Ratima who no longer drives all the way to the capital just to enjoy a meal at an international food chain or to go shopping, or watch a film. Boutique hotels once confined to Hua Hin or Phuket are now also appearing in Pattaya.

Paul Stevens, director of operations for the Accor hotel chain in Thailand, also detects a fine shift in favour of Pattaya despite its negative image going back to the Vietnam War era. After opening Mercure Pattaya five years ago, Accor opened All Seasons in early 2007 and Ibis last year, with the 353-room Pullman, which target the Mice segment, due to open next year.

Hollywood-style sign erected on the hillside near Bali Hai pier proclaims Pattaya City. PHOTOS: SIRINYA WATTANASUKCHAI, NATTHITI AMPHAIWAN, KOSOL NAKACHOL, BOONLONG PHAN-UDOM and WEERASAK MEKLOY

But such a change often comes with a price. Ratima finds a two-bedroom condo with sea view that cost only a few million baht five years ago now costs at least 10 million baht. The old price can now only gets you a studio apartment in some back street.

Land prices have hiked up considerably in the past decade. Veteran property developer Pitiwatthana Phochatkaew remembers paying only 750,000 baht per rai some years back. The price has shot up to three million baht per rai or higher.

But the increase in land prices has been compensated by the addition of more variety. Randone expects Pattaya to become a ranking destination in three years, and possibly an extension of Bangkok a decade from now.

Pattaya’s cause has been helped by the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s decision to promote the city as a destination for tourists of all ages, says Niti Kongrut, director of its Pattaya office. From a city once too reliant on retired Japanese coming for its night life, Pattaya now also attracts younger Japanese who are drawn to its beaches.

However, the city has always been the top destination for Russian tourists who enjoy the sun, sand and sea, and night entertainment available at affordable prices. “We’re not saying that there’re no prostitutes and katoey in Pattaya,” says Niti. Only that Pattaya has a lot more to offer.

And to Thais who have not visited the resort city in the past few years, Suthikiati says “Pattaya has changed so much. Once again, you can feel it’s genuine charms.”

This huge water park at Centara Grand Mirage Beach Resort promises to become a popular draw for families. The island seen on the horizon is Koh Lan.

This replica of a Dutch windmill at Silver Lake Vineyard is perhaps a good reason why Pattaya needs to be revisited.

Forget golf for a while: go-karting, paintball, jet-skiing and bungy jumping are among some of the adrenaline-pumping activities awaiting visitors to the famous resort town.

Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com