Chiang Khan, a quiet border town in Loei opposite Laos, oozes with a feel reminiscent of Pai not long ago
Writer: YVONNE BOHWONGPRASERT
Published: 10/09/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
Chiang Khan is a backwater town in Loei Province where time seems to stand still.
This oasis of tranquility sits by the mighty Mekong River that separates Thailand and Laos. Rows of old wooden houses lining its banks present a beautiful natural backdrop to the town while friendly locals make tourists feel welcome, especially those looking to get away from overdeveloped touristy destinations.
The feel of yesteryear still hangs heavy on Chiang Khan, and to city slickers it may well even seem like ghost town, but a string of guesthouses and homestay facilities that have sprung up by the river’s banks in recent years is evidence enough that a more tourists are visiting the town, generating in the process extra income for its residents and their families.
And with that has come a threat typical of every other emerging tourist destination _ the looming risk of a change in the way locals conduct their daily business. Not wanting to see their town go down that road, Chiang Khan residents have promised themselves not to fall for tourist dollars nor compromise their traditional values and lifestyle.
Elegantly dressed elderly women await monks with bowl in hand. At the crack of dawn locals queue up in front of their homes to offer alms.
They apparently have Pai, a hip tourist destination in Mae Hong Son Province, in mind. Before it became popular, Pai boasted the same dreamlike feel Chiang Khan with oozes today, but sadly missing these days.
Chiang Khan residents appear to have adapted to this change of pace quite well. Visiting there recently I spotted several guesthouses converted from private homes with minimal changes to the original structure, an Internet cafe, a few restaurants, traditional massage and bike rental outlets.
Malee Duangkaew, 65, and Pradit Soonthornwat, 60, a retired police officer, run guesthouses, and both were adamant they would do what’s right for Chiang Khan rather than chase tourist dollars, no matter how tempting the prospects.
‘‘Our guest rooms are simple, yet comfortable. Visitors need to get used to our way of life. This is all we can offer them. I do believe people visit our community because they enjoy the environment we offer,’’ said Malee.
Pradit disclosed that investors have approached them offering to open up a karaoke bar to serve the increasing number of tourists visiting, but after discussing the matter at length they decided against the idea.
These cute little sisters obliged me with this photo while their mother waited her turn to offer alms to monks.
‘‘We take genuine pride in our communal way of life. There is not a soul on the road after dark, so Chiang Khan is definitely not for people who enjoy nightlife,’’ he said.
‘‘If you hear loud music in the middle of the night, be informed it comes from a village in Laos on the other side of the river.’’
A few metres from Malee’s guesthouse is the only souvenir shop in town, peddling T-shirts with Chiang Khan written in bold letters, postcards and coffee mugs etc. Cotton quilts and glazed strips of coconut are popular items to take back home.
During a bicycle tour of Chiang Khan I found the locals amiable, always ready with a hello or smile.
One attraction worth checking out while in Chiang Khan is Kaeng Khut Khoo, a rapid in the middle of the Mekong River, just three kilometres from the town’s district office.
The northeastern province of Loei has several features common with the northern region, namely mountains and foggy yet pleasant weather most time of the year, though the temperature can fluctuate between extremes during summer and winter. The province is blessed with abundant natural beauty and bears a unique blend of Isan and Lao cultures.
At the bus terminal in Muang district there is regular bus service to Chiang Khan. For timetable, call 042-814-551. It takes approximately 45 minutes from Muang district to get to ChiangKhanIntersection, your drop off point, where there are tuktuks that connect visitors to various points in the district.
More information on Chiang Khan can be found at www.chiangkhan. in.th. For tourson theMekong River, call the TAT call centre at 1672.
A vendor preparing ‘khao pun’ (rice noodle soup), a morning delicacy served with pork meat and innards.
One of aunty Malee Duangkaew’s daily chores is visiting the local fresh food market to purchase meat and grocery to feed her guests. The produce is delivered from nearby farms, and most vendors begin setting up their stalls before sunrise.
Chiang Khan’s wooden houses seem from another era. Walking these streets is like being transported to another world. Most residents here have their roots in Xanakham, Laos. Their ancestors moved to Chiang Khan in 1874 following a war and established the town. The best way to feel the pulse of this town is by bicycle or on foot. And when your stomach starts to rumble, there are a selection of nice food stalls where you can whet your appetite. (Inset) Visitors take a leisurely bicycle tour, stopping en route at a souvenir shop.
Not to be missed is this century-old house of a former landlord. Neighbours say they have seen apparitions of an old lady in the house, believed to be that of its last owner. Plans are underway to turn the house into a museum.
Guests can choose from rooms with fan or air-conditioning. Common bathrooms are the norm, but if lucky you might find a room with attached toilet and bath. Guests are treated as if they are part of the family, with hosts often going out of their way to make them feel at ease. Towel, soap and a bottle of water are about the only amenities one can expect. The guesthouse I stayed in offered free coffee and Milo beverage drink.
A floating room with thatched roof for guests wishing someplace different to stay the night.
Some families make cotton quilts for a living. Visitors are welcome to drop by. Children learn the trade at a young age to lend their parents a helping hand.
After a long day touring the nooks and crannies of this neighbourhood, stop by for a traditional Thai massage to untangle those tight muscles and set yourself up for the next day.
Constructed in 1942, Wat Si Khun Muang is a showcase of Lao architecture. It has a northern style Lan Chang Buddha image made of wood, purportedly much older than the temple, carved a century ago or more. There are also a number of murals at the entrance of the ordination hall depicting the 10 incarnations of Lord Buddha.
A scenic view of Laos and the Mekong River from the Chiang Khan side. Take time out to enjoy the sunset.
Enjoying a bowl of noodles is a nice way to relax.
Tourists enjoy a leisurely walk on the embankment built to contain the Mekong River.
Behind the ancient wooden homes with a view to the Mekong is a walkway where visitors can enjoy a leisurely stroll or go biking. The embankment was built to prevent soil erosion and seasonal flooding. During a walk here one morning, I discovered that a large number of families had cats as house pets.
Apart from scenic location, Kaeng Khut Khoo is known for huge rocks forming in the middle of the Mekong River. The best time of year to enjoy a view of this site is between February to May when water in the river recedes exposing the rocks. By the pier, there is a market where you can pick souvenirs and savour the local cuisine. Boat rides along the river are also available for a price.
Blobs of sticky rice dipped in egg yoke and fish sauce is a popular finger food. It has a rather salty flavour and tastes best while still hot.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *