Chainat and Uthai Thani in two days
****Feeling the pulse of the Thai countryside
Story & photos by Thanin Weeradet
(Bangkok Post dd. 30 maart 2006 // DN)
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The Golden Shrine and its exquisite architecture at Wat Tha Soong.
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Hypnotising and dazzling, the mosaic mirror-studded chapel of Wat Tha Soong.
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A boat cruises along the scenic Sakae Krang River in Uthai Thani.
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The cable car spanning the Chao Phraya River offers a bird’s eye view of Chainat.
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Mating game… a peacock shows off its true colours at the bird park in Chainat.
Lying at the junction of Sakae Krang and Chao Phraya rivers, Uthai Thani and Chainat give visitors an insight into age-old traditions reflected in the agarian lifestyle of rural people and their religious faith, as well as Thai architecture.
Not sitting on a popular tourist route, it may seem strange recommending the twin towns to travellers out of Bangkok who prefer the beach resorts of Pattaya and Hua Hin for a weekend escape. However, if you are looking for a change of place and keen to explore new grounds, they are ideal alternatives and here is how you should begin.
**Day One **
This year marks the 100th anniversary of King Rama V’s visit to Uthai Thani. He travelled there by river in 1901 and 1906 as part of his visits to the North.
To reminisce his trip, Wat Ubosatharam or Wat Bot located opposite Uthai Thani’s municipal market, can be a good start. If you drive and approach from the market side, find a place to park and walk across the bridge to the temple. The buildings, especially an octagonal structure, are influenced by Western architecture. There are 200 years old mural paintings in the old ordination hall. Choose a time when it is not too hot - late afternoon or early morning. Moreover, it is a good walk over the bridge from where you can have a fascinating view of the Sakae Krang River and raft houses on its either banks.
If you are up early, walk up to the fresh food market by the river. These days it is rare to find an old-fashioned market where fresh produce, chillies, spices are laid out on mats on the market floor. Pla Thongko ( fried doughnut) and Khanom Krok (a sweet made from coconut milk) greet early birds. The town is famous for its fresh water fish. You will see a spectacular diversity of protein-rich food, along with old-fashioned grocery and shops selling ancient medicine, household appliances and accessories. It’s a good break from ambling in Top or Carrefour.
Take a river cruise on Sakae Krang River and lunch on board. Lush landscape and raft houses line the banks. Stop at Wat Tha Soong and admire the glittering chapel of Luang Pho Ruesi Ling Dam that will bedazzle you with a myriad of mosaic mirror decorations. A replica of the revered Phra Phut Chinnarat image in Phitsanulok is enshrined on one side and the embalmed body of Luang Pho Ruesi Ling Dam on the other. It is open between 9-11:45am or 2-4pm.
The temple boasts over 100 toilets, find out why. The next stop can be the architecturally exquisite Golden Shrine.
**Day Two **
The Phaya Mai Resort by the river is ideal for overnight stay. Get up early to enjoy the coolest time of the day and watch Buddhist monks travel by boat on their alms rounds. Visitors are welcome to join the merit-making but they have to inform the resort in advance.
For a bird’s eye view of Uthai Thani, go to Sakae Krang Mountain atop which is Wat Sangkhat Rattana Khiri. There is a big bell believed to be built during the reign of King Rama V. A statue of King Rama I’s father also sits there.
From there proceed to Chainat. Once there, take a river cruise on the Chao Phraya River. The two-hour cruise includes lunch. This stretch of the Chao Phraya is completely calm, a world apart from the section flowing through Bangkok. The boat departs from a pier near the Chainat city hall and sails all the way to Chao Phraya Dam before turning back.
Then take a cable car across the Chao Phraya. Chainat is probably the only place in the country that has a cable car spanning the river. Operated by the provincial administration, it opened in 1994 but was closed down a few years later for a major repair. It reopened last year.
Chainat also boasts a bird park which will soon be expanded to include fresh water fish. The 248-rai bird park aims to become the biggest in Asia. Even in the afternoon the park stays surprisingly cool. It showcases fowl, geese, peacocks, pheasants etc, etc, in a huge enclosure that makes you feel as if you are walking in a natural forest.
**MORE INFO **
Uthai Thani is 222 kilometres north of Bangkok. To get there, take Highway 32 (Asia Highway) via Ayutthaya, Ang Thong, Sing Buri and Chainat. Move on to Highway 333 at Tha Nam Oi Intersection and cross the Chao Phraya River, then drive for another 16 kilometres to get to Uthai Thani.
Uthai Thani and Chainat can also be reached by regular bus service from Mo Chit Bus Terminal. However, once there moving around could be a problem, so it is recommended that you have your own transport.
Cruise service
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Sakaekrung River Cruise, Uthai Thani, contact Pan House Travel.
Tel: 02-933-0577, 02-538-0335, 056-524-589. -
Chao Phraya River Cruise, Chainat, contact Charoen Si Nava Boat; tel: 01-972-0989.
Accommodation
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Uthai Thani
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Phaya Mai Resort (056-571-1767) by the Sakaekrung River is within walking distance from Wat Ubosatharam.
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Suchada Orchid (056-511-459, 09-436-1499) operates raft houses on Sakaekrung River.
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Chainat
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Chainat Resort (056-415-599; www.chainatresort.com) has 27 rooms. It sits on Phaholyothin Highway at Ban Kluai in Muang District of Chainat.
Shopping
Uthai Thani Market: Dried fish and food.
A short walk to the main street from the market is a shop well-known for its ‘Ya Hom Samin’ or herbal medicine.
Uthai Thani and Chainat are known to have large areas of pomelo orchards, particularly the ‘Khao Taeng Kwa’ variety. Baan Yen Orchard, run by Suchin Saekrung, is expected to have pomeloes ripe for sale again in August. The first crop was harvested a few weeks ago. The address is: 50 Moo 1, tambon Hat Thanong, Muang District, Uthai Thani; tel: 09-565-4586.
Uthai Thani’s top OTOP product is aromatherapy incense available at Lamphai Thong Tanao’s, 62 Moo 6, Tambon Ko Thepho, Muang District, Uthai Thani 61000; tel: 01-973-2931; web site: www.thaiscented.com.