House of Gods
Buddhist temples and Hindu deities lend to the spectacle as the mighty Mekong weaves its way around Nong Khai
Published: 29/10/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
A gateway to Vientiane and Laos, Nong Khai is a delightful destination endowed with fertile paddies, abundant fish, natural and manmade attractions skirting the Mekong River.
Sala Kaew Ku, also known as Wat Khaek, is the home of towering Buddha images and Hindu gods, which are the creations of Luang Pu Bunluea Surirat, a Laotian artistturned- mystic, who studied under a Hindu sage. His views on Buddhism and Hinduism find expression in the statues displayed at this sculpture park in Muang district.
It has a rich historical background that goes back two centuries, the remnants of which can still be found in a myriad of temples and ancient monuments spread around the town area and much of the province that sits on the verdant banks of the Mekong. A bus ride along the river is a nice way to explore this northeast province and its tourist attractions, as well as the laid back lifestyle of the local people.
Apart from its old districts and sprinkling of colonial villas, the town area is popular with backpackers heading on the tourist trail further north. Catering to these travellers are guesthouses and restaurants that have mushroomed in recent years, making the town a choice destination for those looking for a fully fledged backpacker experience.
Hindu deities such as Shiva and Parvati, Brahma and Vishnu take up much of the space.
On a recent visit we dropped by a few temples, one of which sits in a cave, Wat Tham Si Mongkhon, an open-air museum displaying statues of gods named Sala Kaew Ku and ended our trip with a stop at Tha Sadet riverside market in Muang district for some shopping.
Unlike other provinces of the Northeast, I found Nong Khai has done well to maintain its rich culture and traditions. The winding roads along the Mekong River are in good condition, making the trip all the more worthwhile.
Chatting with roadside vendors revealed to me that several of them had migrated from bigger provinces, like Khon Kaen and Udon Thani, to work and ply their wares here because Nong Khai drew a larger number of tourists, local as well as foreign.
Among them was Bua, a 45-year-old silk vendor from Khon Kaen who has five children. She said while the number of customers buying from her wasn’t substantial, it was still more than what she would have sold in Khon Kaen, because more tourists passed through Nong Khai these days.
‘‘I am pretty happy if I can sell two or three pieces,’’ she mused, while waiting for buyers at a temple car park. ‘‘I wasn’t able to make ends meet back home so I decided to push my luck in Nong Khai. Here I make just enough to pay for my room rent and whatever I am able to save I send it to my family.’’
In the old days visitors travelled by boat from Tha Sadet to Laos. But the opening of 1,174m-long Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge on April 8, 1994 changed all that. Nong Khai is now a major trade and transportation hub.
Apart from temples and natural attractions, the province is noted for local delicacies such as Isan style sausages and fermented pork.
To travel around Nong Khai rent a car or take the ‘‘skylab’’, a local contraption that resembles an auto rickshaw. The fare can be bargained.
For local and inter-provincial transportation, call the Nong Khai Bus Terminal at 042-411-612; the railway station at 042-411-582.
TAT’s northeastern office can be reached at 042-325-406/7, 1672; fax 042-325-408; email [EMAIL=“tatudon@tat.or.th”]tatudon@tat.or.th.
Luang Pu Bunluea Surirat was said to love snakes. He believed they were the purest of all animals. This could very well be the reason why there are a number of structures adorned with the head of a snake. Touring the park is an eventful experience because it stimulates your imagination. The concrete creations represent various levels of Hindu and Buddhist cosmology. Depiction of good and the evil, the humdrum and the eccentric and the innocent and the freaky is a common theme throughout the park. Some of the harder figures to decipher include a larger than life elephant being assaulted by a ferocious pack of dogs. This, we were told by the park tour guide, represented a Thai proverb: a man who is confident of his innocence need not to worry about malicious rumours. It took him and his disciples two decades to complete over one hundred models, some of which tower a whopping seven floors. He died at the age of 72. His mummified body is housed on the third floor of the main building. His followers allege his hair is still growing and needs a cut periodically
Wat Po Chai is another popular temple in Nong Khai. The royal temple is home to Luang Pho Phra Sai who is held in high esteem by the local people. The image is seated cross-legged and cast in gold. Every year during the Bun Bang Fai rocket festival locals come to pay him their respects.
A monk leaving the temple in the ‘skylab’ auto rickshaw, a form of transport common in northeast Thailand. While not overly comfortable, they serve their purpose and can be spotted in larger towns of Nong Khai. The fare starts from 15 baht per person.
The pagoda of Wat Phrathat Bang Phuan in Muang district houses Lord Buddha’s relics and other religious structures. The century-old original pagoda featuring an Indian stupa had to be renovated after its base collapsed in 1970. The current pagoda is propped by a square relic chamber and a finial adorned with an umbrella. Within the temple grounds there are brick structures of the seven important places Lord Buddha visited after attaining enlightenment.
Local worshippers pray at Sa Phaya Nak or the pond of Naga serpents. It is believed that water from this pond was used in bathing rites performed to install a new king or ruler.
Legend has it that the cave was discovered by a hunter, who came across it while chasing his prey which had entered through a tiny opening. While inside, you will find it damp as water flows all year round. The rock formations resemble an assortment of objects. The ones that draw most attention look like bell-shaped towers.
Tha Sadet pier on the Mekong River is a checkpoint for people crossing into or coming from Laos. The market around the pier bustles with activity on weekends. Cheap merchandise from China, Laos and Vietnam is sold here. Visitors will find themselves spoilt for choice because the goods—everything from electrical appliances to food products and clothes—are sold tax free along a mile-long stretch by the river. The market opens 7am to 6:30pm.
There are a number of restaurants in the pier area selling local delicacies that are a fusion of Thai and Laotian recipes, meaning hot and spicy.
After you have done your shopping take time to explore the backlanes of the town where you will find colonial style homes, some of them going back a century. Friendly locals will be happy to direct you there.
The biggest attraction in Sangkhom district is Wat Tham Si Mongkhon, also known as Wat Tham Din Phiang, that sits in a cave which gives the temple its name. Since some parts of the cave are narrow and cramped, people with claustrophobia and heart problems should stay away. According to unsubstantiated reports the cave has no end and the deeper it runs, the lesser moisture it has. It is not advisable to venture on your own. Guided tours are available. A senior guide tells us that for years this cave served as a route for monks on pilgrimage between Thailand and Laos. However, only men of virtue and noble monks could make their way around the cave and emerge from it alive.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *