ARTIKEL BANGKOK POST: Nakhon Si Thammarat

Thailand Het laatste Thailand nieuws
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Divine cocktail

Diverse faiths and secluded beaches of Nakhon make an enduring balm for the soul

Writer: KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE
Published: 3/09/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons

Nakhon Si Thammarat, or Nakhon for short, can be described as a melting pot of cultures and religions that have co-existed side by side peacefully for centuries.

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Nakhon is home to the highly revered stupa called Phra Barommathat at Wat Phra Mahathat Voramahaviharn, built in 1176 during the reign of King Si Thamma Sokarat. The temple sits on the main Ratchadamnoen Road where other houses of worship are also located, including a chapel dedicated to Phra Narai, another to Shiva, various mosques, churches and Chinese shrines.

According to local historian Bundit Sutthamusik, Nakhon in the old days was a busy seaport where merchants from India, Persia, Arabia, Rome and China called to trade goods, the reason why the southern Thai province today is such a diverse mix of peoples and ethnic cultures.

Historical records show that the first foreign ships to call port in Nakhon sailed from India, circa second century, after which trade grew and prospered leading to Nakhon becoming the commercial and transportation hub of Southeast Asia.

Nakhon’s original name is Tambralinga but over the course of history it has also been known by other names: Kamaling or Tamaling in the Pali script, Sri Lankan traders called it Tamalinkham while to the Chinese it was Tan-ma-ling, and to the Portuguese during the Ayutthaya period, Ligor.

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Nakhon was at the height of its power during the reign of King Si Thamma Sokarat. Spurred on by victories on the battlefield, his kingdom at one time stretched all the way south deep into parts of today’s Malaysia, and to its west, parts of Burma. Its fortunes somewhat paralleled Thailand’s ancient kingdom of Sukhothai, explained Warunee Noiwha, a tourist guide at a local museum.

But its power declined thereafter, diminishing with ascendancy of the kingdom of Ayutthaya, which annexed Nakhon in the 14the century. And so it remained till 1932 when country switched to constitutional monarchy and Nakhon became a province of democratic Thailand.

Despite being the second biggest southern Thai province, after Surat Thani which boasts the twin world-famous resort islands of Samui and Phangan, Nakhon is not so well-known among tourists. However, the province has one of the longest stretches of beach in the country to brag about, and plenty of quiet corners if solitude and privacy is your wont.

‘‘We have beautiful beaches, as in Khanom district,’’ said Suthep Keasang, director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s provincial office. And plenty of family activities like riding long-tailed boats to watch dolphins not far from the coast, or exploring ancient historical, arts and cultural sites all conveniently located within town.

Visitors can enjoy scenic beaches or take a tour of mangrove forest and admire various life forms it holds within its embrace, while the the adventure type can go trekking up the highest mountain in southern Thailand. The mountain is part of Khao Luang National Park and boasts several beautiful waterfalls that are at their raging best this time of year.

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Wat Phra Mahathat is home to Phra Barommathat Chedi (the Great Stupa), symbol of the province, that also features on Thai coins of 25-satang denomination.

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Nail decoration Manorah folk dancers adorn on show at the city museum.

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Surrounding the Great Stupa is a cordon of 158 smaller ones. At the top end of the stairway in the photo on the right are talismanic statues of Jatukham and Ramathep deities which guard the entrance to the circumambulation for visitors to walk and pray to the relic housed in the Great Stupa. Flanking the stairway are several images of mythical creatures.

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While in Nakhon Si Thammarat, you must sample these three dishes. From top to bottom are ‘khanom jeen’ rice noodles served with choices of spicy Thai curries such as ‘kaeng khiew wan kai’, ‘namya’, ‘nam prik’, ‘kaeng pa’ and ‘kaeng tai pla’ eaten with an assortment of green vegetable; ‘jampada thod’ is champedak flesh and seed dipped in flour, sugar and coconut milk and then deep-fried; and ‘mangkut kut’ which are unripe mangosteen rinsed in salt water: crispy, the taste is bit sweet, sour and salty at the same time.

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This chapel dedicated to Hindu god Shiva and the Giant Swing on the main Ratchadamnoen Road downtown are historical sites with deep-rooted links to the Brahman religion. Inside, visitors will find a Shiva linga and images of Phra Uma and Phra Phikkhanet. The Giant Swing is used during Tri-Yampawai, a Brahman rite practiced even today. It is believed to be the inspiration behind the one you see in Bangkok.

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Every first night of the waning moon, the local business community joins the Tourism Authority of Thailand in staging what is known as ‘Moon Party on the Beach ’, featuring reggae music, cocktails, dinner and live concert. It is a great family occasion set against the backdrop of a stretch of beach nine kilometres long in Khanom district.

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At Ao Thong Nien in Khanom district, visitors can ride long-tailed boats to watch humpback and Irrawaddy dolphins frolicking within a 10-km radius of the mouth of the Khanom River, or around Koh Tham. Some 40 dolphins have been recorded in the area, and the best time to spot them is early morning, between 6am and 8.30am, from March to June. The dolphins, out to feed on mullet fish that thrives in the mangrove nearby, are usually spotted at low tide. They seem to be accustomed to the noise from the engines of the fishermen’s boats. You can stopover at Koh Nui and observe, or even taste, the drinkable fresh water collected in a small hole in the rock just a few metres from the sea. To rent a boat, call the Marine Resource Protection Club at 087-282-7761. The cost is 800 baht per boat. Each boat can accommodate six people.

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Khanom, about 100 kilometres north of downtown, sits on the Surat Thani border, and just 20 kilometres from the pier at Don Sak where tourists board the ferry to Samui and Phangan islands. Most of its residents are fishermen, and though it is the smallest district in Nakhon Si Thammarat, it is rich in natural resources, particularly fish including mackerel.

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The district of Khanom boasts dragonfruit farms happy to welcome visitors. Grown for export, the fruit tastes sweeter on the farm than those bought in supermarkets. Win Kuadsuwan of Suan Kaew Mangkorn Siam (081-587-3895), said she grew the fruit using bio-fertiliser. She uses the blue net she is holding to cover the fruit when still young to protect it from flies. She sells them for 20 baht a kilogramme.

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Claiming to be the only place where clients can experience fish spa treatment in a natural stream, Ton Tarn Resort & Spa located in Khanom district charges visitors 100 baht for a dip, with no limit on time. What most visitors generally do is sit on the stream’s edge with their legs astride in water, letting fish like bitter dregs, glass fish and red cheek barbs to come nibble at them. The sensation is prickly, some times hurting.

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Shops selling woven clothes, handicrafts and handmade products dot Tha Chang Street downtown. Souvenir hunters better try to bargain the prices down. The ground floor of this shop, Sibsong Naksat, opposite the local TAT office, is the site of daily demonstrations in the art of cloth weaving.

Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com

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Writer: KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE
Newspaper section: Horizons

This young man puts on such an entertaining performance, enthralling both locals and tourists, that he probably could find employment as a mixologist at some trendy nightclub. He is, in fact, a barista of sorts at Bang Bao restaurant in Nakhon Si Thammarat town, the resident expert at making a beverage which is called cha chuk (“pulled tea”) in these parts.

It’s a popular drink in the South, served either hot or ice-cold, and its origins can be traced back to Malaysia and Indonesia where it’s known as teh tarik.

The jug our grinning showman is holding aloft contains black tea. This he is expertly pouring into a mixture of sweet condensed milk and evaporated milk (the tinned variety used by Thai cooks). He gradually raises one vessel as he lowers the other, creating the optical illusion that he is “pulling” the liquid from the upper one. He repeats the process, moving back and forth as he does so and even spins around without spilling a drop, eliciting a chorus of oohs and aahs from onlookers.

The process not only blends and cools down the tea but also aerates it, creating lots of little bubbles which give it a smoother texture. Bang Bao sells several different kinds of roti which patrons order to accompany their cha chuk.

*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *

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**The delicate art of shadow puppetry is alive and well in Nakhon Si Thammarat **

Writer: Story and photos by KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE
Published: 10/09/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons

It is rare nowadays to see nang talung shows being staged in Bangkok, but down south, in the provinces from which this traditional dramatic form originally spread to the rest of Siam, shadow-puppet theatre is still flourishing. Of the 300-plus active puppeteers in that region, one of the most celebrated lives in the city of Nakhon Si Thammarat.

*Backstage, Suchart removes one of his *
*‘nang talung’ puppets from its woven *
bamboo container.

On family land close to his own home, Suchart Subsin, named a national artist because of the valuable contributions he has made to the field of folk performance, commissioned the construction of four two-storey, wooden houses as a nang talung museum.

“I paid for it out of my own pocket because I wanted to preserve this important part of our cultural heritage,” explained Suchart whom local residents affectionately address as loong (uncle).

A native of Nakhon Si Thammarat, he has been interested in nang talung from an early age. As a young man he used to put on puppet shows daily for one- or two-month stretches, often working up to eight hours a night.
Back then, he said, he and his fellow puppeteers were much in demand, performing at pre-ordination parties, weddings, funerals and temple fairs. During his long career he has worked all over Thailand and is particularly proud of the time he entertained HM the King. He has also taken his puppets abroad for performances in Japan, Germany and France and is scheduled to put on a show in Australia next year.

*The long shadow is created when Suchart *
moves a puppet away from the screen.

Nang talung probably originated in India, he said, and in its early days in Siam the stories were all based on the Ramayana epic. Elements of local folklore were later incorporated into the plots and master puppeteers also created typically Thai characters which would appeal to audiences here.

“The art of nang talung is all about skilful storytelling. A puppeteer needs to have a good sense of humour in order to make the tale enjoyable and keep the audience’s attention right to the very end of the show.”

The major difference between nang talung and nang yai, the other style of shadow puppet theatre popular in Thailand, is the size and intricacy of the figures. The leatherwork for nang talung puppets is not as detailed and they are much smaller so one person can manipulate all the characters (up to 30) needed to tell a story. The elaborate nang yai puppets are so big and cumbersome that each requires its own personal puppeteer. The limbs and jaws of nang talung puppets are articulated so they can be made to appear to speak and move in a much more lifelike fashion than their inflexible nang yai counterparts.

*Housed in four traditional houses, the *
*shadow-puppet museum has a simple, *
rustic look.

Now 75, Suchart is still hale and hearty, energetically manipulating his cast of characters and putting on whichever voice - young, old, male or female - is appropriate for each. His scripts invariably contain witty references to current affairs, politics and social issues and he keeps the look right up to date by adding new characters from time to time. His latest creation is a woman who can change in a flash from being a timid southerner in typically modest garb to a supremely self-confident urban trendy sporting jeans, skimpy tank top and mobile phone.

Suchart performs sitting cross-legged on the floor of the stage, concealed behind a large piece of white cloth. This screen is illuminated from behind by a simple household lightbulb. His only other aids are a microphone connected to the theatre’s sound system and an electric fan. While he manipulates one puppet with his right hand, he is preparing the next cast member with his free hand. His wife acts as his assistant, playing a variety of drums and small cymbals to heighten the dramatic impact at various points in the play.

National Artist Suchart Subsin

He always performs live and says what he most enjoys is getting his audience to laugh. “My favourite characters are two professional comedians called Kaew and Thong. I’m very fond of them because I’m able to crack jokes on their behalf!”

The audience certainly seemed to appreciate his sense of humour during the short demonstration show I attended recently; we were having so much fun that the 20 minutes simply flew by!

Afterwards we were encouraged to visit the museum where the exhibits include a wide variety of nang talung figures, including several 150-year-old antiques, plus puppets used in other parts of the Kingdom (like the nang phramothai figures of the Northeast) and puppets from Turkey, India, China and Indonesia. Also on display are instruments used to provide the traditional musical accompaniment for nang talung shows such as long drums, gongs and the sor-u (alto fiddle).

“It gladdens my heart to know that people are still interested in nang talung,” Suchart confided as I took my leave.

Demonstration of leather tooling.

*Display of traditional musical instruments *
*typically used during a ‘nang talung’ *
performance.

*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *

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A riverside community in the South delights with its natural bounty

Writer: KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE
Published: 17/09/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons

There’s a host of things to see and do and lots of tasty tidbits to sample during a day’s outing to Pak Phanang, 36 kilometres east of Nakhon Si Thammarat town.

*Women at Ban Si Somboon busy making *
‘khanom la’.

During the 19th and early 20th centuries this district was the rice bowl of the far South. Its strategic location near the mouth (pak) of the Phanang River made it convenient for ships from British Malaya and even from as far away as Java to dock and load up with hulled rice from the steam-powered mills that lined a long stretch of the waterway.

‘‘Commercial vessels no longer tie up along here,’’ said Paisarn Wipoosanapat, a local resident who’d volunteered to be our guide for the day, ‘‘but we’ve preserved the old wooden shophouses and I think the atmosphere is similar to what it must have been like in the past.’’

King Chulalongkorn, who paid a visit in 1906, near the end of his reign, is on record as saying: ‘‘I had been aware of the importance of this district, but … it far exceeded my expectations. I had not imagined it
[to be] so big and so rich. The river is about as wide as the Chao Phraya at … Bangkok. It has fertile rice lands, even more so than those in the Rangsit canal area. And there is enough unused land to increase tenfold the area now under rice here. None of the ports on the eastern coast of the Malay Peninsula can hold a candle to Pak Phanang.’’

Packaging the sweetmeat.

And we may well have been walking in that monarch’s footsteps as we wandered around the old market next to the river. ‘‘This place has been going strong for more than a century,’’ Paisarn told us, ‘‘and very little has changed in that time except for its size; it’s a lot smaller now than it used to be.’’

The reason for the downsizing, for this district’s rapid decline in commercial importance, is attributed to a decision made in 1955 by the government of Plaek Phibulsongkhram to set up a rice monopoly to buy surplus grain for export. The revenue this body raised was used to finance infrastructure projects for urban and industrial development. The price paid to the farmers, however, was 15 to 35 per cent below the going rate on overseas markets and this caused many landowners to convert their paddy fields to shrimp farms. So many, in fact, that a slew of rice mills were forced to close and saline run-offs from shrimp farms began polluting the local water supply.

Earlier, Suthep Keasang, director of the Tourism Authority of Thailand’s Nakhon Si Thammarat office, had suggested we take a boat cruise along the river. ‘‘And one thing you mustn’t miss while you’re at the market,’’ he said, ‘‘is the dried fish. Pak Phanang is famous for its whole dried mullet and mullet roe.’’

*Part of the royal residence located *
within the Pak Phanang royal project.

And there was certainly plenty of it in evidence! Glad to escape the noisome fishy odours, we finally emerged onto the main street where stalls were selling local delicacies such as khao yam (rice served with a selection of raw vegetables and a sweet-and-salty sauce made from preserved fish) and khanom jeen, that national favourite of rice-flour noodles with veggies and a choice of spicy or slightly sweet nam ya curry.

Farther along the street we came to a dilapidated-looking, three-storey building which, Paisarn informed us, was the first condo nok (‘‘bird condominium’’) in the district. It was built in the late 1920s and abandoned by its owners, a wealthy Thai-Chinese family, a few decades ago after it was discovered that swiftlets had begun nesting on the top floor. The temporary homes of these little creatures are, of course, the much-sought-after principal ingredient in bird’s nest soup, a medicinal product which fetches handsome prices, particularly in China. Today, according to figures kept by the TAT, no less than 250 structures have been erected in this district as artificial nesting sites for these feathered ‘‘gold mines’’.

‘‘The interior of a condo nok is supposed to resemble a cave,’’ Paisarn explained. ‘‘There’s no need for windows; just holes in the walls big enough to enable the birds to fly in and out.’’

*Mullet laid out to dry in the sun *
*at Pak Phanang market, *
Nakhon Si Thammarat.

The owners install water-sprinklers to keep the atmosphere sufficiently humid and play recordings of swiflet calls to attract more avian lodgers.

‘‘If they fly into one of these buildings and like it, then they’ll stay and set up house. They want to live in comfort _ just like humans! The male helps the female build the nest, a task which usually takes around a month.’’

The locals we spoke to that day didn’t seem bothered about having to share their air space with thousands of noisy birds. ‘‘I’m used to them. I’ve been living here since I was a boy,’’ said one 55-year- old. ‘‘We’ve had no problems.’’

A 15-minute drive from the market is the village of Ban Si Somboon where almost everybody seems to be expert in the production of a rice-based sweetmeat called khanom la, originally made as an offering for religion ceremonies.

‘‘Every family here knows how to make it,’’ said Nongluk Chayarattanarak, who has converted her house into a small khanom la factory. She and her relatives churn out about 100 kilogrammes of the snack every day, distributing it to provinces across the South. We stood and watched as one very dextrous lady made a batch. First, she poured a mixture of fermented rice flour, palm sugar and honey into a metal container which resembled an empty tin can with a handle. Scores of holes had been bored into the bottom of this vessel which she then began swinging over a large wok, pre-heated and greased with coconut oil. Maintaining a rhythmic, circular motion, she had soon covered the base of the pan with a thin, golden-brown layer whose texture resembled a spider’s web. In a matter of seconds it had set hard and she was able to toss it onto a stack growing next to the wok. When cooled down, they are wrapped in plastic.
Slightly sweet, they are wonderfully crisp if sampled which piping hot.
Normally, the villagers sell them, wholesale, for 65 baht/kg. A kilogramme is probably enough to feed a small crowd, given that the diameter of one is equivalent to half the length of an adult’s arm! For ease of consumption khanom la are also formed into long tubes and then cut into short lengths.

Dried mullet roe.

The last stop on our intinerary was the Pak Phanang River Basin Development Project which has brought great benefits to the people of Nakhon Si Thammarat and the neighbouring provinces of Phatthalung and Songkhla. It was initiated by HM the King to prevent saltwater intrusion into freshwater channels, retain reserves of water for year-round consumption, mitigate flooding and reduce conflicts over water between shrimp and rice farmers.

During our tour of the project site we were taken to see a palace built by the locals to show their gratitude towards His Majesty. It took six years to finish and was handed over to the Royal Household Bureau in October, 2007. It consists of 13 buildings constructed in a simple but elegant southern style with materials like marble and teak. The roofs mimic the shape of a large flower in the hibiscus family called the dixie rosemallow.

  • The palace is open to the public on weekends from 9am to 3pm. For more information, phone 075-416-000/3.

  • To organise a visit to Ban Si Somboon, the khanom la village, call 089-591-5128.

  • For more details about Pak Phanang, visit www.tourismthailand.org or phone the local TAT office on 075-346-515/6.

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*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *