Visual spectacular
****Tastily illuminated historical landmarks and ruins spice up night dining cruises in Ayutthaya
Story & photos by Thanin Weeradet
(Bangkok Post dd. 13 March 2006 // DN)
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Wat Chai Wattanaram glitters in the dark.
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A nicely lit and furnished barge plying the waters that form a loop around the old town of Ayutthaya.
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Cruise passengers relax enjoying the view after a sumptuous meal on board.
When dusk falls, Ayutthaya historical landmarks by the Chao Phraya and other rivers glitter in artificial light rendering visitors another fascinating side of the former Thai capital.
Most tourists usually visit the historical ruins by day. First-time visitors marvel at the exquisite and intricate architecture of the province’s centuries-old temples and they are equally mesmerised by its history.
But it is hot in the day and moving from temple ruin to another can be a very taxing, even if it’s just a half-day tour. A better way to appreciate what is still left of this ancient capital and its faded glory is wait until the sun sets and then venture out just the way Ayutthaya people used to do in the days long gone - by boat.
These days there are evening cruises to take visitors around the former capital and there are plans to extend the service to other rivers - Pa Sak, Lop Buri and Noi rivers - that flow into Ayutthaya and form a loop around the old town, said Somchai Choomrat, the provincial governor, and Pichai Piamthongkam, the director of Tourism, Sports and Recreation Centre.
After sunset a boat tour around the old quarters by boat is a rewarding ride as all prominent landmarks along the route come alive in a blaze of colourful lights. This section of the former capital is studded with functioning temples and ruins side-by-side modern office buildings and residences.
We boarded a wooden barge at River View Place Hotel by the bank of the Pa Sak, its top deck configured especially for spectacular view and excellent dining. A short ride to its south on the opposite bank was Wat Phanan Choeng, where we were heading.
“Historical records confirm Wat Phanan Choeng was built 26 years before Ayutthaya became the capital of Siam,” said our guide. That would indeed be a very old temple I thought for the earliest recorded mention of Ayutthaya dates back to 1350. Since then the temple has been done and redone so many times that the looks belie its age. The chapel has a majestic Buddha image measuring 19x14 metres.
We reached a three-way junction where Pa Sak River meets the Chao Phraya. On the same side as Wat Phanan Choeng is the Dutch settlement and opposite it is Pom Phet Fort.
We sailed further south in the direction of Bang Pa In past the Japanese settlement.
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St Joseph Church… an unmistakably Christian presence in predominantly Buddhist Ayutthaya.
The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in Ayutthaya during the reign of King Ramathibodi II in the 16th century. It all began with admiral Alfonso de Albuquerque sending Duartes Fernadez to open trade with Ayutthaya. Later, as relations warmed, Portuguese people also served in the army and as a gesture of appreciation King Chairachathirat gave away land on which they built a church and around which grew the Portuguese settlement.
The arrival of the Portuguese was followed in rapid succession by the Dutch, the English, the Spanish, and the French traders.
We returned to the confluence of Pa Sak and Chao Phraya and sailed west past Wat Phut Thai Sawan, St Joseph Church and on to Wat Chai Wattanaram, one of the most graceful and most photographed temples in Ayutthaya.
The temple’s architecture is influenced by Angkor Wat in Cambodia. It was built in 1630 by King Prasat Thong in memory of his mother.
By now it was getting dark. Most of the landscape remained obscured from view except the historical landmarks, illuminated and shining brightly against the cobalt-blue sky.
The barge made its loop northwards past Si Suriyothai pagoda, built in honour of King Chakkrapat’s royal consort, Si Suriyothai, who riding an elephant fought side-by-side the king against invading Burmese troop in 1548. The pagoda was renovated in 1990 by the Fine Arts Department.
Soon we were sailing past the Pridi Phanomyong Memorial. Seen from the river it was a complex of traditional Thai houses built to commemorate the former Thai leader and statesman who was born in Ayutthaya.
From there we headed east and Wat Thammikarat came into view. By now we had completed the loop and sailed back to the point on Pa Sak River where the journey, lasting more than an hour, had begun: the River View Place Hotel.
**TRAVEL INFO **[ul]
[li]In Ayutthaya a number of dinner cruises are available. [/li][li]For groups, private cruises can be arranged. Contact Tourism, Sports and Recreation Centre (035-245-417).[/li][li]Individual travellers can join cruise offered by various hotels including: [/li][li]Krungsri River Hotel (035-244-333, www.krungsririver.com) which arranges 90-minute dinner cruises on Friday and Saturday with boats departing 6pm. Weekday cruises are available on request. The cost is 150 baht per person, excluding dinner.[/li][li]Poep Phittadan Maechoi Nang Ram (01-654-4555) Baan Vacharachai (035-255-280)[/li][li]Rue Mai Thai Restaurant (035-211-177)[/li][li]Koom Krung Sri (035-210-211, 035-211-676)[/li][li]Ruen Kanya (01-938-7410)[/li][li]Ruen Rab Rong (034-211-036, 035-243-090)[/li][li]Ruen Thep Niyom Sap (035-322-259, 01-947-5016, 03-003-0568)[/li][li]Chao Phraya Maruai (035-211-692, 01-852-3079, 01-948-3585) [/li][li]Thewaraj Restaurant (035-241-597, 035-244-124, 035-244-224) [/li][li]Sai Thong River (035-241-449, 035-244-575)[/li][li]Kan Kitti (035-241-971)[/li][li]Krua Pompet (035-243-354)[/li][*]Baan Mai Rim Nam (035-211-516, 035-211-526) [/ul]