By: Text KARNJANA KARNJANATAWE and Photos ARTHUR JONES DIONIO
Published: 25/06/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
Old communities by the banks of the Chao Phraya, that demarcates the capital into Bangkok and Thon Buri side, can now be reached more easily than any time before thanks to the extension of Skytrain route from Taksin Bridge to Wong Wian Yai on the other side of the river.
With the extended route you can conveniently explore the former business hubs of Wong Wian Yai and Khlong San on Thon Buri side, as well as Si Phraya that sits diagonally opposite across the river, in a single day - something you would think about twice before doing it because it entailed a boat ride and then wading through heavy road traffic.
Alighting the Skytrain at Wong Wian Yai, the nearest landmark is the King Taksin Monument marked by a roundabout. The area around it was once the heart of Thon Buri where you could find almost anything from dry and fresh food to latest fashion items, clothes and entertainment. These days business there may not be as brisk but it is still a nerve centre for commuters needing to connect to other parts of Thon Buri. There’s also train service to Samut Sakhon.
A short distance from the roundabout is Itsaraphap Road, also known as Si Yaek Ban Khaek, noted for its twin dining outlets: Sa-at Phochana that serves delicious Thai-style steak, and Siri Phochana next door famous for its seafood dinner.
From there move on to Somdet Chao Phraya Road in Khlong San district where sits the Princess Mother Memorial Park that opened in 1993. It was built to preserve the area where the late Princess Mother resided in her childhood. The park next to Wat Anongkharam has lush tropical gardens and a reproduction of the one-storey shophouse of the Princess Mother’s family and exhibition rooms.
A market on Tha Din Daeng Road could be your next stop if you fancy snacks or a quick meal. It is popular for moo satay (grilled yellow pork on skewers) and han phalo or braised goose in brown gravy. At the end of road is a pier where one can take shuttle boats across the river to Ratchawong and Sampheng market in Chinatown. If not, proceed to Khlong San and sample hot meals and desserts at the local market, where on sale are a wide array of fashion items.
At the end of this market is a pier. Cross over to the Bangkok side to Si Phraya or the River City, a shopping mall famous for arts and antiques. Next to the mall is a lane which leads to the Odeon Circle in Yaowarat, the gateway to Chinatown.
Walking this lane you arrive at the Holy Rosary Church, built in gothic style on a plot of land where a community of the Portuguese, who had migrated to Bangkok from Ayutthaya during the reign of King Rama I, was located.
The pier at Si Phraya remains a hub for boat commuters and tour operators offering cruises on the Chao Phraya.
It can easily take a whole day to explore all the three communities, and indeed be very tiring. At the end of it you can reward yourself with a relaxing luxury cruise provided by any of hotels and restaurants both sides of the river.
King Taksin Monument is an icon of Thon Buri. It is 14 metres high and was built in 1954. The roundabout has had a new landscaping which makes good use of red, green and yellow decorative plants. Locals come here to pay homage, while politicians use it for mobilising votes and support.
The Princess Mother Memorial Park in Soi Somdet Chao Phraya 3 occupies 4 rai . Beside the replica of house showing where the Princess Mother lived when still a child, visitors can observe her personal items such as her dresses, Buddha images, a set of tea cups, a ceramic sauce bowl and photos of her royal activities in its two exhibition rooms. The park opens daily from 6am to 6pm.
This shop is well-known for its ‘tabtim krob’ (a crunchy water chestnut served with sweet coconut milk) dessert. It is on Lat Ya Road, opposite Robinson department store in the Wong Wian Yai area. Served with ice, it is highly revitalising on hot days.
This three-car train operates daily linking Wong Wian Yai with Mahachai in Samut Sakhon. The trip takes about an hour oneway and the fare is 10 baht. But the State Railway of Thailand is offering free rides on the route until the end of July.
‘Bua loy’ (rice dumplings in coconut milk) is a dessert you must sample when at Khlong San market. The unique part is that it offers not only ‘khai wan’ (sweet egg), but also ‘khai khem’ (yolk of salted egg) in the dessert. If you want to know how good the taste is, just look at the number of the sellers waiting to take orders from customers.
Khlong San market is an open-air shopping facility for trendy youths and working women. Designer clothes and fashionable shoes are sold at bargain prices. The market is always crowded as commuters heading either way between Charoen Nakhon Road and Khlong San pier must pass through it.
There are only a few shops selling fabrics in Wong Wian Yai today. According to this owner, there used to be dozens in the good old days as people liked to come shopping and get their dresses tailored here.
Antique products and art works are available at the River City. Built in 1984 as Bangkok’s first riverside shopping mall, the four-storey building houses 200 shops. Its first floor is an exhibition area for organising art events.
Dining by the banks of the Chao Phraya can be a very relaxing experience. You have several choices of restaurants at both sides of the river.
Wat Phichaiyat in Khlong San district is ideal meditation. It was renovated by Somdet Chao Phraya Borom Maha Phichaiyat (That Bunnag) during the reign of King Rama III. The ubosot and interior design is based on Chinese art. Materials used for renovation and decoration were sourced from China.
The Holy Rosary Church, or Wat Calvary, sits on land that belonged to the Portuguese who migrated from Ayutthaya. (The Portuguese Embassy is walking distance from here). Built in gothic style, the church is on Si Phraya side of the river. It opens daily during 7-7:40am, 3:30-3-50pm and 4:50-5:30pm. It holds mass in both Thai and Chinese, because there is a large Chinese community nearby.
Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com