**This sleepy, charming market at the intersection of Nuang Khet and Tha Khai canals may be on the comeback trail **
Published: 7/02/2010 at 12:00 AM
If you’ve become bored with the typical over-crowded markets in Thailand, Nakhon Nuang Khet Market is an interesting and much quieter choice, but maybe not for long. The market is situated in Chachoengsao province at the intersection of Nuang Khet Canal and Tha Khai Canal, which runs from the Bang Pakong River.
Chatcharun Visetsuwan, who operates a boat on these waterways, grew up around here. He recalled the atmosphere of the market in his childhood.
“Three or four decades ago it was much livelier than now. Passenger boats from Min Buri stopped here for fuel, and passengers disembarked for shopping and dining before continuing the journey to the Bang Pakong River. It was busy all day, until 1am.”
The 21-kilometre Nakhon Nuang Khet Canal was dug in 1876 during the reign of King Rama V to serve as short cut between Bangkok and Chachoengsao. After the completion of the canal, King Rama V journeyed to Chachoengsao by train and returned to Bangkok by boat via this canal.
In the past the rural market was filled with locals coming to buy and sell rice, tea, oil and fresh food. Today most people go to supermarkets for these items.
“It is pretty quiet today. Just behind these houses along the canal you will see only vast rice fields,” said Mr Chatcharun.
But after the success of Klong Suan Market, another old market on the border between Chachoengsao and Samut Prakan provinces, in the last six months community members have tried hard to promote the Nakhon Nuang Khet Market.
So before it returns to its former fame and becomes crowded again, take a walk around the century-old market and enjoy the old-time flavour. The market’s mostly wooden shophouses line both sides of the calm canal, linked by a high wooden bridge. Merchants also do business out of boats on the canal. There is an old-fashioned coffee house which welcomes guests to sit on marble-topped tables, and food stalls selling a variety of prepared dishes.
There is a wide selection of food, fruit and souvenirs here. I sat down on the pier and ordered a bowl of egg noodles with pork from a boat vendor.
In only a minute she served up the delicious dish. To my surprise, the price was only 10 baht.
One of the best known shops in the market is Ban Tanai - the Lawyer House - which offers a variety of authentic local dishes.
Next to Ban Tanai you may notice customers sitting around a big steaming hot pot, waiting to be served.
“It is kuay tiew pak mor, a kind of noodle,” the merchant explained to me.
Each customer gets a bowl of clear soup. Then the merchant will drop a spoonful of rice batter on the top of the pot, which is then covered with a piece of clean cloth. After a minute the rice batter becomes a soft sheet and various vegetables are added on the top. The merchant wraps it all up and puts into the hot soup of her waiting customer.
On the day I went the playground was was free of children and the owner of a plant shop took the time to engage me in a discussion on her favourite flowers. Fortunately, this still-forgotten market keeps its easy atmosphere for now and there is plenty of space to sit back and enjoy the cool breeze off the canal.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *
