***Miracle on the mountain ***
Two decades of dedicated effort has transformed a wasteland into a shining example of how Man can live in harmony with Nature
PATSINEE KRANLERT
Shrouded in a haze that is a mixture of cold morning mist and smoke from highlanders’ campfires, the mighty mountain of Doi Tung is a mesmerising sight. This tree-covered peak, 48 kilometres north of Chiang Rai town, is the focus of the Doi Tung Development Project initiated by HRH Princess Srinakarindra, the late Princess Mother.
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Rhododendrons on Doi Chang Moop.
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An Akha woman makes a traditional hat.
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Sunset from Doi Chang Moop.
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A lush corner in the grounds of Doi Tung Royal Villa.
Prior to the inauguration of the project in 1988, the forest here had been largely denuded due to the prevalent practice of shifting cultivation carried on by the local hill tribes, whose only cash crop was the opium poppy. Noticing the severity of the environmental degradation when she visited Doi Tung in 1987, Her Royal Highness launched a reforestation programme to restore this important watershed to a pristine condition.
This led to her decision to build a residence atop Doi Tung which would double as a base from which she could supervise the project. With the Nang Non mountain range providing a striking backdrop, the two-storey royal villa has a unique appearance combining, as it does, architectural elements inspired by the Lanna style with those of a typical Swiss chalet. Its beautiful exterior and delightful interior are complemented by a landscaped flower garden which affords a stunning panorama of the surrounding peaks and valleys.
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Ripened coffee cherries ready for picking.
The construction of the villa marked the beginning of a long-term, sustainable development scheme to tackle social, environmental and economic problems in the area. Two decades of dedication has completely rehabilitated the ecology of Doi Tung. Opium production has been eradicated and replaced by the cultivation of alternative cash crops like macadamia nut and coffee, which, on its own, generates a legitimate income for some 4,500 local people.
Today Doi Tung is a shining example of how ecotourism can benefit both the environment and the community as a whole. A degraded forest has been transformed into a gorgeous landscape that tourists travel from afar to admire. Sensitive, far-sighted planning has ensured that the integrity of the highlanders’ culture has been preserved, the negative effects of tourism on the landscape have been minimised and extra sources of income have been created for the impoverished residents of this area.
Concrete evidence of the emphasis on ecotourism can be clearly seen at the four-hectare Mae Fah Luang Botanical Garden. It boasts more than 70 species of cool-climate ornamental and flowering plants, that thrive at high altitude, planted in the midst of native species, leafy shrubs and perennials. Colourful flowers from all corners of the world are rotated regularly to ensure a variety of blossoms all year round.
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View of Mae Fah Luang Botanical Garden.
For a treat or a break, stop off at the coffee corner within the garden for a cup of locally grown brew. Disease-resistant Arabica seedlings are raised on a 1,500-rai plantation in the neighbourhood and only the finest coffee cherries are hand-picked by trained workers, most of whom once relied on opium production for a living. The superb quality of Doi Tung brand coffee is brought out by careful attention to every stage of the process from planting and harvesting to roasting.
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Conceived as a site for ecotourism adventures, Mae Fah Luang Arboretum on the slopes of nearby Doi Chang Moop provides a fertile habitat for rare flora, including species of Rhododendron, which flourish at an altitude of 1,500 metres. Viewing the sunset from the summit is an experience not to be missed; one gets a 360-degree vista of this most picturesque part of the North, with mountain peaks in neighbouring Myanmar and Laos clearly visible.
In close proximity to the arboretum is the most important religious attraction in the area. Built more than 1,000 years ago in the middle of an indigenous pine forest, Wat Phra That Doi Tung boasts two ornate, Lanna-style chedis which are said to contain relics of the Lord Buddha.
Who could have imagined, back in the early 1980s, that this barren mountain stripped of its trees would one day support a lush, green forest abounding in different species of tree. Or that many varieties of dazzling flower would bloom all year round in fields where once only opium poppies swayed in the breeze?
Doi Tung has come to symbolise the Princess Mother’s tireless determination to enhance the standard of living enjoyed by ethnic minorities and to create conditions that would allow humans to co-exist with the forest.
The Princess Mother is no longer with us, but her vision will live on, thanks to the dedicated efforts of local people and the loyal staff of the Doi Tung Development Project.
*Bron: Bangkok Post 13 March 2008 / www.bangkokpost.com *