TOPOGRAPHICAL MEDLEY
While it doesn’t cover a large area, Khao Sam Roi Yot Marine National Park boasts a great variety of attractive landscapes
By: Story and photos PATSINEE KRANLERT
Published: 19/02/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
A study in contrasts, Khao Sam Roi Yot comprises several rocky islets off a strip of beaches and freshwater marshes in Prachuap Khiri Khan province which are encircled by steep limestone hills covered with forest. Designated the country’s very first marine national park in mid-1966, it remains one of the smaller protected areas in Thailand despite having its borders expanded in 1982.
Legend has it that, some 3,000 years ago, a sizeable Chinese junk capsized in a storm and ran aground on an island here. While many on board perished, 300 people managed to reach the shore safely. Thus this stretch of coastline became known as Sam Roi Rod, which could be translated as ‘‘three hundred survivors’’.
As time went by, the sea level decreased to reveal a series of majestic hills that rise dramatically from the Gulf of Thailand to a maximum height of 605 metres. Consequently, over the years the name slowly became distorted to Sam Roi Yot _ ‘‘three hundred peaks’’.
The juxtaposition of sea and grey limestone surfaces makes Sam Roi Yot a site of great natural beauty, yet it is the coastal wetlands which give the park its ecological significance. These marshes serve as a breeding ground, stopover point and permanent habitat for a large variety of migratory and native birds plus reptiles, amphibians and several species of endangered mammal.
Sam Roi Yot offers a tremendous variety of attractions including fine sandy beaches, spectacular caves, superb mountain viewpoints, boat rides to nearby islands, treks along forest trails, as well as excellent bird-watching opportunities.
Apart from fishing, residents of Sam Roi Yot raise cattle for a living. Cattle farms are scattered throughout the park and herds of cows grazing lazily or crossing roads is a common sight here. This ‘‘beware of cows’’ sign is posted to alert first-time visitors of their unexpected appearance on roads when driving through the park.
Tourists can catch a glimpse of animals that freely roam the mangrove, such as dusky langurs, mudskippers, egrets, herons and mischievous crab-eating macaques that hide behind trees, waiting to pounce on their unwary victims.
The visitor centre at the park headquarters is where tourists can enquire for information about attractions and activities available to them inside the park. The headquarters has an exhibition hall with display boards detailing various aspects of park life and ecology. The 960-metre-long nature trail adjacent to the information centre sheds good light on mangrove forest and its brackish environment.
These boats belong to the fishermen of Bang Pu village, a canal-side community on Klong Bang Pu, from which the village takes its name.
This road cutting through the park offers plenty of birdwatching points where visitors can admire over 300 types of birds, with these white egrets being one of the most abundant in residence here. Other species available on view include Malaysian plovers, magpies, painted storks, grey herons, cormorants, waterfowls and eagles.
Thung Sam Roi Yot is the largest freshwater marsh remaining in Thailand stretching 43,260 rai of flat lowlands. This lush habitat is also a fertile nesting place for birds, fish and amphibians. During the cold months from the end of October to early February, more than 200 species of migratory birds flee harsh winter in China and Siberia to find shelter in this resource-rich area, making the marsh a haven for birdwatchers.
Bang Pu Beach is 17 kilometres north of the visitor centre. From this spot, Phraya Nakhon Cave, the park’s must-see attraction, can be reached on foot or by boat.
Opting for the more convenient boat ride means it will only take 15 minutes to round off Khao Tien before arriving at Laem Sala. A round-trip costs 300 baht per boat, which can accommodate up to eight passengers.
Khao Tien is a decent 530-metre-long trek through uneven jungle trail that would even challenge seasoned climbers. Reaching its summit, visitors will be rewarded with a spectacular panorama of coastal areas and beautiful mountain scenery. The trek ends amidst peaceful surroundings provided by the towering casuarinas of Laem Sala, where a restaurant, a choice of accommodations and camping facilities are available.
Places of interest inside the cave are a pond, Bokkhorani, that reminds of the mystical basin in Tribhumi Buddhist cosmology, a chamber full of stalactites and stalagmites, another with sevencoloured curtains, a dam, a stone monument which resembles Ta Erb, the fisherman who discovered Tham Sai, an artesian well and a dome-shaped stone.
At Khung Tanod village begins an adventure through lush forest—a climb up to Tham Sai Cave. Compared to Phraya Nakhon Cave, the 280-metre trail to Tham Sai might be shorter, yet it is steeper and more difficult to negotiate. Some sections of this path are covered with huge boulders that rise precipitously, requiring strong climbing skills. Visitors can rent flashlights or lamps from the village to take with them into the dark cave. Tham Sai is a fine example of architectural magnificence created by forces of nature. The place boasts countless stalactite and stalagmite formations that glitter like jewels under light.
Phraya Nakhon Cave is named after a former ruler of Nakhon Si Thammarat who discovered it during the reign of King Rama I. The cave has two chambers pocked with holes caused by the collapse of their ceilings. Its highlight is a four-gabled roofed pavilion, Kuha Kareuhasana, constructed to commemorate the visit of King Rama V on June 20, 1890. In addition to Rama V, Kings Rama VII and Rama IX have also visited the cave. The pavilion chamber creates a fascinating sight every morning when the first rays of light filter through the opening in the roof and illuminate this exquisite royal treasure. With its masterful blend of natural splendour and graceful architecture, the pavilion has become the symbol of Prachuap Khiri Khan province.
From the beach at Laem Sala, the only way to reach Phraya Nakhon Cave is via a climb up a steep 430-metre trail. Some parts of this forest path are rough, strewn with rocks and require great efforts to climb, however, the cave’s beauty and its historical value is worth the effort.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *