If you think you have seen all there is to see in Phuket, head for the lighthouse on neighbouring Taphao Noi Island
Writer: Story and photos by PONGPET MEKLOY
Published: 13/08/2009 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
It doesn’t matter how many times you’ve been there; the resort island of Phuket and its vicinity always have something ‘‘new’’ for you to discover.
Koh Taphao Noi, a hidden gem that has long sat unnoticed right next to the Pearl of the Andaman, is a case in point.
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Located west of Phuket, just a 15-minute boat ride from Makham Bay, Koh Taphao Noi is the location of a lighthouse that has been aiding boats and ships navigating in and out of the bay for over a century. Yes, like most lighthouse sites, Koh Taphao Noi is under the care of the Royal Thai Navy.
However, in stead of a sign shouting ‘‘Military Zone. Do not enter!’’, visitors to this little island are greeted by a pair of brightly painted old metal buoys with a genial ‘‘welcome’’ written on each of them.
At Koh Taphao Noi, which is manned by three navy men and a couple of friendly dogs, you’ll learn about the history of lighthouses in Thailand plus the work of the Royal Thai Navy’s Hydrographic Department that takes care of them. The natural environment here is also enjoyable, unspoiled by mass tourism. As a matter of fact, this forest-covered island is home to about 50 pairs of Oriental pied hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris) that live in harmony with many other wildlife.
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Spare an afternoon for Koh Taphao Noi on your next visit to Phuket. Who knows… it might turn out to be your best.
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At the top of the tower, make sure you can fight against the strong wind as you enjoy the scenery.
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All are welcome to the island. Entrance fees are 20 baht for Thais and 100 baht for foreigners.
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Koh Taphao Noi’s lighthouse tower and a side building perch high on a hilltop. Dating back to 1899, they are older than many of the Chino-Portuguese styled buildings in downtown Phuket. Visitors can reach them via a set of concrete steps that leads through woods up the hillside.
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The flag of the Royal Thai Navy resembles the national flag, the only additional feature being a white elephant in the middle of a red circle. One thing of note here: the elephant always faces the flag pole.
You should consider yourself very unlucky if you don’t catch sight of the Oriental pied hornbill which thrive in large numbers on Koh Taphao Noi and the nearby Koh Taphao Yai. These birds are the smallest of the 12 hornbills species recorded in Thailand.
Phuket has two lighthouses: one at Koh Taphao Noi and the other, known as the Kanchanaphisek Lighthouse, at Phromthep Cape. The latter also houses a little museum which features several interesting antique lighthouse equipment. Visitors are welcome free of charge daily from 8am to 7pm.
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While the lighthouse tower stands on the south side of the hill that forms the backbone of the island, this WWII military lookout, built by Japanese troops, is located at the northern end. However, these days trees around this site have grown so tall you couldn’t have a good a view of the sea.
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From a distance it seems like these locals are preparing to build a sand castle. But they are grown men so that’s definitely not the case. What the two are actually doing is wiping the beach surface with their hands, looking for shellfish buried in the sand during the low tide. The collected mollusc is ‘pickled’ in fish sauce for a night and then ready for eating. The hermit crab on the left is as large as a roll of toilet paper.
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Tamarind trees, of which the leaves and fruit are used as ingredients in Thai dishes, are not likely to grow naturally in the wild. Therefore, they are regarded as proof of human settlement. On Koh Taphao Noi you’ll find several huge tamarind trees. They must have been planted by the people who manned the lighthouse during its early days.
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Visitors to Koh Taphao Noi disembark at this tall stilted pier which for some is fun to walk on, while for others it’s kind of shaky. It may some day be replaced by a concrete pier, according to one of the lighthouse keepers.
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The lighthouse tower has no steel structure. It is built of bricks, like the one shown in the smaller picture which now serves as a door stopper. Permission from the keeper is needed to enter the tower.
This is the lamp on top of Koh Taphao Noi’s lighthouse. It runs on electricity generated from solar cells. Its earlier versions, which used acetylene gas, are now on display in the building adjacent to the tower.
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This cabin at the end of the island’s wooden pier looks very much like a restroom. But in fact it houses a device for monitoring tides. Water levels recorded at different times of the day are collated and presented in the form of a graph.
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To reach the lamp at the top of the tower, you must climb up this tall ladder. Once there you get a good vista of Makham Bay and the rest of the southeastern part of Phuket, from downtown area all the way to Cape Panwa.
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The Search and Rescue Unit (Sar) of the 3rd Nava lArea Command coordinates with the local municipality, Tourist Police and other agencies to ensure tourist safety in theAndaman Sea. The unit has boats, a helicopter and trained personnel, ready to rush in in case of emergencies. The unit’s phonenumber is (076) 595-043. If that’s too many digits, remember this one instead: 1669, the number of Narenthon rescue centre. They will contact the Sar Unit if your case is too much for them to handle.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *