Rocks of faith
**Set in a hypnotising landscape, Phu Phrabat Historical Park in the northeastern province of Udon Thani has been a destination for pilgrims for more than a century. This natural wonder will soon be nominated as a World Heritage site **
Published: 11/07/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Brunch
More than 300m above sea level, a mushroom-like rock stands tall on the green Phu Phrabat hill of Phu Pan mountain, west of Udon Thani. Local people believe that Nang U-sa and Tao Baros, a princess and a prince from two rival cities, secretly lived together there once upon a time. Now the 3,430-rai (549-hectare) Phu Phrabat Historical Park is to be nominated as a World Heritage site due to its natural wonder and cultural significance.
ORANGE: Sunset at Phu Phrabat.
“Phu Phrabat is an outstanding site because of its incredible features. How did these mushroom-like rocks come to exist here? Who brought them here? It is a matter of bizarre geography and cave paintings which show the presence of human beings here in ancient times,” said Somsuda Leyavanija, deputy permanent secretary for culture and a member of the UN Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation’s (Unesco) World Heritage Committee.
WOMAN’S TOUCH: ‘Hoh Nang U-sa’ or Lady U-sa’s chamber.
At Phu Phrabat, 68 ancient structures are classified as prehistoric archaeological sites, 45 of which contain cave paintings and 23 of which are sandstone shelters-turned-religious venues.
To Ms Somsuda, these rocks in strange yet beautiful shapes at Phu Phrabat are not just stones. They are associated with the culture of human beings who lived there about 3,000 years ago, and created cave paintings with outstanding features. Phu Phrabat was also the abode for people during the Dvaravati, Lop Buri and later periods, dating back nearly a 1,000 years ago. Therefore, it is a unique historical archaeological site.
“This site can be compared to Stonehenge in England, which is really famous,” said Douglas HM Gibson, the ambassador of South Africa to Thailand, during the Ministry of Culture’s recent Familiarisation Trip to Thailand’s Cultural World Heritage Sites for 40 foreign diplomats and spouses to visit Phu Phrabat and Ban Chiang, Udon Thani.
He noted foreigners and tourists need to realise that Thailand is more than just Bangkok and Phuket and has many other interesting places for history enthusiasts.
MARKED: Kou Nang U-sa encircled with monastic markers, or ‘sema’.
According to the Fine Arts Department, millions of years ago Phu Phrabat was covered with glaciers, and when the ice sheets melted the moving icebergs crushed the earth with great gravitational force, causing large-scale glacial erosion on this hill. These geographical changes led to the different strange shapes of rocks and menhirs.
About 2,500 to 3,000 years ago, prehistoric people wandered these hills to hunt wild animals and gather forest produce. They also painted on the walls of sheltering stones during their leisure time using natural red colours with images of hands, animals, men and geometric designs. Some of the pictures reflect the living conditions of animals and men during that period as well.
“This site has authenticity. These are natural rocks, but parts of them were cut by humans,” said Tharapong Srisuchat, director of the Fine Arts Department’s Office of Archaeology. “Cave paintings here are about 2,000 to 3,000 years old. They were painted with natural colours. They belong to the New Stone Age while rock cutting was done later in the Iron Age using iron tools.”
MURALS: Rock paintings in Tham Woau- Tham Khon, or Oxen Cave-Human Cave.
The original names of the ancient structures at Phu Phrabat are unknown, but local people named them after the content of their folklore called “the Legend of Nang U-sa and Tao Baros”. According to this legend, Nang U-sa, a foster daughter of Tao Kong Phan who ruled the Kingdom of Phan (now Phu Phrabat), fell in love with Tao Baros, a son of the ruler of Pako City. The couple secretly lived together in Hoh Nang U-sa (U-sa’s chamber). When Tao Kong Phan knew the truth, he challenged Tao Baros to compete with him to build a temple in one day. Instead, Tao Kong Phan lost and kept his promise to kill the loser, which was himself. Thereafter, Nang U-sa followed Tao Baros to his kingdom where she was bullied by his former wives. With sorrow, she returned to Phu Phrabat and finally died. Tao Baros followed her to Phan and died from sadness.
Accordingly, the site has rocks named Hoh Nang U-sa (Lady U-sa’s chamber), Wat Porta (The father-in-law’s temple), Wat Louk Khoei (The son-in-law’s temple), Heebsob Porta (The father-in-law’s coffin), Heebsob Louk Khoei (The son-in-law’s coffin) and Heebsob Nang U-sa (Nang U-sa’s coffin).
“According to the legend, Hoh Nang U-sa served Lady U-sa and Tao Baros. But in reality, it served monks and people from nearby communities who might have come here to give alms. Therefore, Phu Phrabat was not an ordinary community but a religious temple,” Ms Somsuda said.
DEEP: ‘Bor Nam Nang U-sa’ or Lady U-sa’s well.
To her, Phu Phrabat also holds ethnic significance for the centre of various groups of settlers, including Tai Puan, Tai Lao from Lanchang, and people from the Central Region. The first group of settlers went there about 3,000 years ago when borders did not exist and anyone could travel across this mountain freely.
“Phu Phrabat has been a pilgrimage site for more than a century. There is a belief that it was man-made, though it is the work of nature,” said Somdee Aranrut, an official of Phu Phrabat Historical Park.
According to Mr Somdee, Phu Phrabat is a religious and historical place.
Between 800 to 1,000 people go there daily to worship the Lord Buddha’s footprint in the fourth lunar month, or March. In the past, travelling was difficult and people had to get here on foot and stay for three to four days. Today, day-trips are possible due to better access roads.
In addition to the centuries-old legend, Phu Phrabat also has natural and ecological value. The surrounding evergreen forest is still full of plants and wildlife. The majority of trees there are teng and rang (Deciduous dipterocarp), pradoo (Burma padauk), makhamong (Afzelia zylocarpa (Kurz) Craib) and phai (bamboo). There are also a lot of herbs and wild orchids. All these plants as well as parasite plants, moss and lichen are indicators of this national park’s fertility. There are still small wild animals such as boars, squirrels, monitor lizards, anteaters, cobras and banded kraits remaining in this forest while bigger animals like deer fled to more abundant forests in nearby Laos.
Now, the Fine Arts Department is preparing the nomination proposal for submission to the World Heritage Committee next year.
According to Ms Somsuda, Phu Phrabat has been on the World Heritage site tentative list since 2003. Now the department is translating the nomination file to English. The file, which contains many details including maps and management plans, should be ready by the end of this year and submitted to the World Heritage Committee by Feb 1, 2011. Evaluation will take about a year and results are expected in July 2012.
ANCIENT: Several Buddha images at Tham Phra were carved during the same period as Bayon.
Presently, there are five World Heritage sites in Thailand - Ayutthaya, Sukhothai and its satellite towns Ban Chiang in Udon Thani, Thung Yai-Huai Kha Khaeng and Khao Yai. The Phimai Historical Park in Lop Buri and Phanom Rung Historical Park in Buri Ram province are on the tentative list, while the Andaman Islands and Kaeng Krajan National Park also have a lot of potential. “I am certain Phu Phrabat will win the votes. It has a lot of potential to become a World Heritage site because it is already on the tentative list and its qualifications match all the requirements,” Ms Somsuda noted.
Thada Sangthong, head of Phu Phrabat Historical Park, said: “Dr Adul Wichiancharoen, former president of the World Heritage Committee, told me that Phu Phrabat stands a very good chance of becoming a World Heritage site, especially in terms of culture and landscape. It is beautiful and reflects how humans and nature can co-exist in harmony.”
All photos by Sanitsuda Ekachai unless stated.
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PLACE OF REST: ‘Heebsob Nang U-sa’, or Lady U-sa’s coffin.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *