Dark and Enticing
Satun’s subterranean beauty used to be a closely guarded secret; not anymore
Published: 13/05/2010 at 12:00 AM
Newspaper section: Horizons
It’s understandable if Thailand’s deep south has not figured in your travel plans the past few years. Of course, there’s no point risking your life in an area infested with insurgency and separatist groups when the rest of the Kingdom has so much to offer. But wait a minute! Maybe you’ve forgotten Satun!
Not only is Satun the only of the four provinces in the Muslim-dominated region not affected by any violence, it is also the only one located on the western side of the peninsula facing the beautiful Andaman Sea.
Yes, the islands of Tarutao Marine National Park off Satun’s coast have long been dream destinations for Thai and foreign nature lovers alike. But this small province also has a lot to brag about on the mainland itself, some of them well-kept secrets until recently.
Tham Phu Pha Phet, the cave featured on this page, is one of them.
If a picture could paint a thousand words, this amazing cave in Manang district, still little known despite the fact that it is one of the largest in the Kingdom, definitely needs several thousands pictures to portray its true grandness. What you see here, however, are just photos taken with a point-and-shoot camera of the cave’s narrow entrance and the huge chamber at the far end of the 50-rai subterranean world much of which has not been penetrated by sunlight.
So here is a chance for travellers armed with decent photographic equipment _ an SLR camera, a sturdy tripod and a high-power electric torch _ to penetrate the cave and shed some light on the giant pillars and other details that it holds within its dark cavernous embrace.
This is your chance to reveal Tham Phu Pha Phet’s true beauty to the world! How many places still remain in Thailand that would offer you such a chance?
Turn to the back cover and you’ll find more compelling reasons to consider Satun for your next vacation!
Satun is not as remote as it may seem. The southern province can be reached via public transport or a rented car from Trang or Hat Yai. With budget airline Nok Air operating several daily flights from Bankok to both cities, travelling to Satun is now even more convenient.
Minuscule crystals which sparkle when hit by light are just one of the many cave features that will run your imagination wild. It is not surprising that some rocks are believed to be sacred and have the power to answer the prayers of believers.
It is well-known that tourism in a fragile environment like caves must be regulated with extra care. That’s why so many restrictions are listed on the announcement board at the cave mouth. But like other similar sites in Thailand, here you still see local guides encouraging visitors to do improper things. In the case shown here, tourists are told to jump off the walkway and trample on the flowstone just to look for traces of proof that there is water cascading down this spot during the rainy season.
At Tham Phu Pha Phet, a dimly-lit wooden walkway several hundred metres long allows visitors to explore the huge cave and appreciate its various types of stalactites and stalagmites as well as columns of different sizes and other natural features. To best appreciate this magnificent cave, it is recommended that you visit it on a weekday rather than on weekends when you might have to share these walkways with busloads of people. For those who prefer a little extra illumination, headlights are available for rent at 20 baht apiece.
Exhausted from exploring Phu Pha Phet cave? Well, freshen yourself up with a round of kayaking along the stream of Lam Lone not so far away. At this time of the year the water level is no more than waist-deep so the stream is pretty mild and safe. Here, the chance of your kayak flipping over, by accident or on purpose, is fun rather than frightening. From June to August when mangosteen and other fruits in the orchards around the finish point are ripe, kayakers are also in for an extra treat— free fresh fruit as much as they can eat! Just for your information, from this section in Manang district, Lam Lone stream continues westward and drains into the Andaman Sea at Pak Bara where the pier for ferry boats to the islands of Tarutao NP is located.
Namtok Wang Sai Thong, a short drive from Tham Phu Pha Phet, is just one of Satun’s many waterfalls. It flows down a limestone mountain, hence its tiered appearance.
- ‘Krathue’, a member of the ginger family, is common in evergreen forests not just in the South but also in other parts of the country.*
Phu Pha Phet Cave is nestled in the Banthat mountain range, home to the Sakai, an almost extinct jungle tribe. These days some members of the tribe earn a living by selling medicinal herbs collected from the forest, while a few work in the tourism business.
Thalae Ban in Khuan Don district has been designated a marine national park, yet much of its attractions are on land. The park is named after a lake, actually a giant sink hole filled with water, which is home to a variety of aquatic plants and animals. The park’s other attractions include caves, waterfalls, grassland and mangrove forest. A few kilometres further south from the park is a border checkpoint called Wang Prachan which is a small trading point attracting Thais and Malaysians.
Not much is needed to say about the highly famous Tarutao Marine National Park. But some may not know that a small province such as Satun also boasts two more national parks: Thalae Ban and Moo Koh Petra.
Once a town hall, the colonial-style Kuden Mansion now houses Satun National Museum. Here you can learn about the culture and ways of life of Muslims who make up the majority of the province’s population. The museum is open Wednesday to Sunday, form 9am to 4pm. Meanwhile, in La-ngu there is an interesting privatelyrun folk museum which showcases items that used to be common in households of southern people, from traditional clothes and food containers to daggers, antique guns and many more.
*Bron: Bangkok Post / www.bangkokpost.com *