On a sunlit Pentecost Sunday, I visited the Certosa di Pavia.
The Certosa is a place you have to look at slowly.
Stone by stone.
Layer by layer.
Everywhere there is attention. Everywhere there is patience. Everywhere you can still sense the hands of people who did not simply work to finish something, but to leave something behind.
Perhaps that is what moved me most: the love with which this place was built. With an almost silent devotion to beauty, faith and time.
In the bright light of that Pentecost day, everything seemed even more alive. The white of the marble. The shadows beneath the arches. The calm of the courtyards. The silence - not empty, but filled.
And I could well understand why monks still live here to this day.
Because some places are not made only to be visited.
They are made to remain in.
To keep the world at a gentle distance.
For me, the Certosa di Pavia felt like such a place.
A monument of stone.
But above all: a monument of attention.
In the heart of Milan, between scooters, voices, and café terraces, stands a small church that barely reveals from the outside what waits within.
Behind a door, almost hidden beside the ordinary city, lies a chapel where death has not been put away.
Skulls look out from niches.
Bones lie in patterns against the walls.
Ribs, femurs, remnants of human lives. Not as chaos, but as ornament.
Once, there was a hospital here, with a cemetery beside it.
When that cemetery became full, an ossuary was built in 1210: a charnel house for the bones from the overcrowded ground.
The bones came from poor patients, brothers of the hospital, administrators, executed prisoners and people from nearby graves.
Later, they were not merely preserved, but carefully worked into the walls.
As decoration.
But also as a message.
REMEMBER THAT YOU MUST DIE.
San Bernardino alle Ossa is not a cheerful place.
But it is a place that stays with you.
Because you are not only looking at bones.
You are looking at people who lived before us.
And at the quiet certainty that one day, we too will become history.
One more short note
San Bernardino alle Ossa took on its present, macabre form in a time when Europe was steeped in religious fear, persecution and superstition.
It was a period that followed centuries of crusades, expulsions, forced conversions, and bloody religious conflicts. Jews and Muslims had been persecuted or driven out in many places. The Inquisition searched for heretics. And across large parts of Europe, people - especially women - were accused of witchcraft.
Witches, of course, were a fiction.
But the fear was real.
And that spirit of the age was something I could feel in this chapel: a world in which death was always nearby, in which faith and threat lay close together and in which people could be turned into enemies by stories more powerful than truth.
For me, San Bernardino alle Ossa is therefore not only a chapel filled with bones.
It is also a silent reminder of what fear, hatred and fabricated stories can do to human beings.
Age 40.000 years
Through fields, forests and narrow roads, I drove to this small, remote museum in Blaubeuren, Germany ![]()
You don’t just pass by this place.
You have to make a detour.
You have to want to see it.
And that makes it even more remarkable.
Here, in a quiet village far from the great capitals, behind simple glass, lie some of the earliest traces of Homo sapiens in Europe: small figures carved from mammoth ivory, flutes made from bone, signs of people who wanted more than survival.
This is far older than Babylon.
Far older than the pyramids.
Far older even than Göbekli Tepe.
Before temples, before cities, before written language, someone shaped ivory into an animal.
Someone made sound from bone.
Someone imagined a being between human and lion.
Not a tool for survival.
But a sign that someone could imagine.
Small enough to fit in a hand.
Large enough to bridge 40,000 years.
And somehow, these world-changing objects are not kept in a grand imperial hall.
But here.
In silence.
Among fields, forests and narrow roads.

